Help reusing copper clad PCB stock

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I have been starting my education on how to etch boards recently by trying to make a Magnus Modulus PCB. Unfortunately I have been having problems making it work. I tried using Staples Basic Ink Jet photo gloss paper, and Radio Shack double sided PCB stock. I have not been able to get a clean transfer. Either the ink doesn't stick everywhere, or it pulls up when I try to remove the paper, even after leaving it soaking in soapy water over night. I want to keep trying using magazine paper as mentioned by some, but I don't want to lose a fortune buying PCB stock. Can someone recommend the easiest way to get the printed sections that did work off the copper so that I can retry with the board I have already used? Will acetone nail polish remover work?I am hoping this is possible since I don't want to have to buy new boards every time I make a mistake while I perfect my technique?

Thanks!

[GREEN FUZ]

Yes, just wipe it clean with the acetone and try again. You could try abrading the surface gently with a fine grade sandpaper before your next attempt.

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Thanks Green Fuzz. I will give the acetone a try. Hopefully I will wind up with a usable board one of these days...

[nosamiam]

Be sure the nail polish remover you use is 100% acetone and doesn't have any colorants or moisturizers in it. And yeah, sandpaper is a must, or alternatively, Scotchbrite pad or very fine steel wool. Sand it first then clean with acetone. Continue to clean with acetone and a cottong ball until the cotton ball comes away white.

And if you have only a few traces or pads that don't stick, use an ultra-fine Sharpie to touch it up rather than starting over.

[tranceracer]

The type of printer also makes a difference.  Be sure that the printer or copier that you're using lays down a lot of toner.  This will help the toner transfer stick to the Cu board.

Scotch brite to rough up the surface and MEK or Acetone works pretty well for me.  The other thing is to be sure to get a hot iron or better yet, a hotplate.

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Thanks Nosamiam. I have gotten traces almost to the point where all I would have to do is sharpie in a couple of breaks, but all of them have areas big enough that I can't imagine trying to draw in the missing sections. But, I am aware of that option and hopefully will get a board to that point or better with one of my next attempts.

I have been reading, and it sounds like although I have tried 4 times unsuccesfully, that is just par for the course while trying to get the technique down. Of course I had to start with a fairly complicated board like the Magnus Modulus just to make life "interesting". But I thought it would be silly to etch a board that I could easily perf together...

Tranceracer, I used a laser copier at the public library. I tried several settings, but my last ones were very dark and crisp. After reading other people's experiences, I think I have the wrong kind of paper. I am going to try magazine sheets next. I tried different iron settings, but the last one was very, very hot. And I did rough up the surface and clean it with rubbing alcohol. Where the toner stuck, it stuck very well, hence the subject of this post.

I'll post once I get this figured out, just to help anyone just getting into PCB like myself.

Thanks!

[nosamiam]

Since you got good adhesion in places and not in others, I would also look really closely at your ironing technique. I use a lot of pressure and very little movement at first. Until you're sure the toner has stuck to the copper, be very careful moving your iron because it can stick to the paper and lift your pattern. I spend probably 10 minutes because I can't stand the disappointment when it doesn't work. Too much is better than too litt.e

[darron]

Either the ink doesn't stick everywhere, or it pulls up when I try to remove the paper, even after leaving it soaking in soapy water over night.
Thanks!

You are supposed to use a laser printer, not an inkjet printer ):

Very fine steel wool does a nice job (:

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Nosamiam,

I put another piece of paper over the whole thing when I ironed to keep it from sticking. I ironed it by using circular motions and applying a lot of pressure. Where it did stick the last time, it also left a wierd thin plastic layer that pulled off some of the ink when I removed it. I will try with different paper tonight and see how it goes.

Darron,

I guess you missed this,

I used a laser copier at the public library.

But I will definately rough it up with steel wool next attempt.

Thanks!

[darron]

sorry. i must have missed that. the word ink threw me off because i know ink won't work,

don't use the kitchen steel wool with soap though...

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O.K. I have the results of my magazine paper transfer attempt. First try it worked great! I ironed for 3 minutes, and the ink really stuck. And the paper came off no problem. I feel like an idiot for buying $15 of Staples basic photo paper, but hopefully I will use it for something else.

I am not yet 100% satisfied, because even though I'm sure I could sharpie in some of the weak connections, I want to see if I can make it even better. The Modulus has some pretty fine details, especially some of the hole locations, so I am hoping to get an even better transfer next attempt.

Oh, nail polish remover from Walgreens with Acetone didn't work very well at all to remove the traces from previous attempts. By applying it and then sanding like crazy, I was able to get it all off. And that definately roughed up the copper...

Thanks for the help guys!