is this whats causing my problems?

[dimebagslash123]

hi, my newly build pedals not working, iv checked for continuity and alls good, however when i check volts, all over the voltage is the same, however there are three points (all connected) that have half voltage, after it passes through a resistor, is that normal? im getting no sound at all through my amp wether the switch is off or on

[BAARON]

If you're getting no sound whether the effect is switched on or off, it sounds like the switch probably isn't wired up properly.

[dimebagslash123]

ok thanks, its a bit confusing as its from maplins and the 1 2 3 are sideways lol

[R.G.]

Read "Debugging: What to do when it doesn't work" and follow all the instructions.

[markeebee]

Definitely check that the switch and sockets are connected correctly.

This is a nice simple diagram to follow:

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

On your pedal, the output wire (shown in green on the diagram) comes from the centre lug of the volume pot and not from the pcb.

[markeebee]

Sorry, forgot to mention, you should have a lower voltage after the 430k resistor, so that's alright.

[dimebagslash123]

sweet, cheers, gona jus rebuild from new i got all the parts today, hope im more successfull this time lol

[head_spaz]

Before you jack up your locomotive and remove the crankcase cover, it would be wise to verify the exact model of locomotive you're working on.
There are many models of locomotives and one should not assume that one schematic could cover all makes and models.

And the appropriate answer to your very specific QUESTION: is this whats causing my problems? ANSWER: YES ... three bags full.

[R.G.]

Amplifying (?!) on what head spaz said, you need to go read Debugging: What to do when it doesn't work.

There is a lot more there than just measuring voltages, even though that is what usually tells the tale. All that preliminary, picky stuff like specifying the source of the project, where to download the schematic, parts datasheets and such are not solely for my (or other kind soul trying to help you) benefit. They're at least as much for YOU to learn how to debug your own by telling you the kind of information you need.

Just like in taxidermy, it's important not to skip the first steps.   

[dimebagslash123]

thanks for all the help, went back and redid everything well.. almost just had to order a few bits, one thing im confused about, iv seen the diagram for the vero board, however on the vero board, theres a 47uf capacitor, which is not on the pcb schematic, is this normal as the layout is obviously not the same? and also the 100uf i have is a cylinder shape yet on the board... its the disk type, is that also normal? thanks in advance

[slacker]

Who knows? You haven't even said what it is you're building. If you post a link to the vero layout you're talking about someone can probably help you.

[R.G.]

Who knows? You haven't even said what it is you're building. If you post a link to the vero layout you're talking about someone can probably help you.

I'd add to that that if you don't post more information, it's unlikely that anyone can help you much more.

[Brymus]

Try drawing what you have done as a schematic.
Then post the layout and schematic you are building from,try taking pictures of your wiring and board as well.

I usually find the problem this way,except my last build where I was so sure of myself and that was my biggest mistake.
Not actually tracing it out so others could help,I would have found the problem alot sooner.
Good Luck

[markeebee]

I noticed that you have posted questions about this pedal in three or four different threads.  Everything becomes clear when you read all of the threads, but any one of them in isolation doesn't give enough info.

So, friendly tip, in future try to put all your questions about a project in one place, that way everyone can get the whole picture. 

In answer to your questions:

The vero layout you're working to looks ok, but it's not verified.  That means that you might be the first one to ever builld it, no guarantees that it will work!!!!

You're right, the 47uf cap (C1) and the 10k resistors (R2 and R3) that are on the vero are not shown on the schematic.  The board will work without them but you could put them in anyway and see what difference it makes.

The OP275 isn't that hard to find, but you can use a 5532 instead - you can get these at Maplins, where you got the other parts from.  The Maplins part number is UH35Q.

You can also get a suitable aluminium box at Maplins, part number is N90BQ.  It's pretty much the same as a 1590BB box, which is a big favourite for stompboxes.

You can use the 'cylinder' shape cap you have instead of the 'disc' type, in fact it will be better.  The leg of the cap that's marked with a "-" should go to ground, the other leg should go to 9v.


To the other, infinitely more knowledgeable, readers of this post:

http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/schematics/blackcatoverdrive.gif
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=46756.0