Press and Peel Help

[soupbone]

I've built about 5 pedals and have done all of the artwork on them myself.I want to use the Press and Peel Method,but I don't know where to start?Does anyone have any info or links on how to do this?Thanks!

[Guitarboy2828]

Best to do a search on the forum. It's been covered many times. You can search for "waterslide decals," "Etching enclosures," or "finished enclosures."

[therecordingart]

I've built about 5 pedals and have done all of the artwork on them myself.I want to use the Press and Peel Method,but I don't know where to start?Does anyone have any info or links on how to do this?Thanks!

The general instructions are on the PnP website. Here are my steps after many years and hundreds of unique boards using toner transfer...

-Turn on the laminator a half hour before starting (don't use an iron unless you have time an sanity to spare). You can get a GBC laminator for about $50. I haven't experimented with off-brand eBay laminators.
-Scrub the copper with scotchbrite or a fine grit sandpaper
-Rinse the board and wipe with paper towel until no more crap is transferring from the copper to the paper towel
-Dry the board with paper towel
-Rub acetone over the surface of the board and let it dry. DON'T TOUCH THE BOARD WITH BARE HANDS FROM THIS POINT! RUBBER GLOVES OR HANDLE IT LIKE A CD!
-Position the PnP on the board
-Run it through the laminator. Turn 180 degrees. Run it through again. Turn 180 degrees. Run it through again. Do this about 3 or 4 times or until your OCD tells you to stop.
-Let the board cool for a few minutes then run it under cold water. Peel off the PnP.
-Under magnification inspect the transfer. Touch up any areas with a Sharpie. Let Sharpie dry.
-Put board in a Sharpie safe etchant.
-Clean board, spray with acrylic lacquer, drill, solder, and enjoy.

[soupbone]

I've built about 5 pedals and have done all of the artwork on them myself.I want to use the Press and Peel Method,but I don't know where to start?Does anyone have any info or links on how to do this?Thanks!

The general instructions are on the PnP website. Here are my steps after many years and hundreds of unique boards using toner transfer...

-Turn on the laminator a half hour before starting (don't use an iron unless you have time an sanity to spare). You can get a GBC laminator for about $50. I haven't experimented with off-brand eBay laminators.
-Scrub the copper with scotchbrite or a fine grit sandpaper
-Rinse the board and wipe with paper towel until no more crap is transferring from the copper to the paper towel
-Dry the board with paper towel
-Rub acetone over the surface of the board and let it dry. DON'T TOUCH THE BOARD WITH BARE HANDS FROM THIS POINT! RUBBER GLOVES OR HANDLE IT LIKE A CD!
-Position the PnP on the board
-Run it through the laminator. Turn 180 degrees. Run it through again. Turn 180 degrees. Run it through again. Do this about 3 or 4 times or until your OCD tells you to stop.
-Let the board cool for a few minutes then run it under cold water. Peel off the PnP.
-Under magnification inspect the transfer. Touch up any areas with a Sharpie. Let Sharpie dry.
-Put board in a Sharpie safe etchant.
-Clean board, spray with acrylic lacquer, drill, solder, and enjoy.

Excellent!Thanks so much for the info!

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Being one that does not have a laminator, I use the iron method and a bit shorter procedure and have had GREAT results after hundreds of PCBs and several faceplates.

One important tip to stress along with TRA's method:

Take time to really look over your transfer! Get a Medium AND fine tip sharpie and cover ANY questionable traces/transfer/pad before dropping it into the etchant. This WILL save you headaches.

Try to warm the etchant before use (I always use Ferric Chloride and it works better when warm)

GOOD LUCK! I use PnP Blue and Ferric exclusively and have gotten great results 99% of the time  

[njkmonty]

i seem to have mixed results, im pretty good with small boards, average with big ones, and having shiity results with enclosures!

whats the preferred temp setting of iron?
do you let cool before immersing in water?
do you pull back the peel n press underwater? or let come off by itself?
how do you know if its done right without lifting it up???

[Govmnt_Lacky]

@njk

I have had terrible results with aluminum as well. Enclosures OR faceplates. For some reason... I just cant get the transfer to stick 

NEVER had a problem with PCB material though. That's why I do faceplates with PCB 

As for the peeling off and knowing when... I don't immerse my transfers in water. After a thorough ironing and when I am satisfied that the transfer is good, I let the PCB sit aside for about 5 minutes. I then CAREFULLY start to peel off the PnP from one side. I am talking snails pace here. You will almost always get a little toner that does not transfer and that is what the sharpie is for. If I get large chunks that do not transfer, I merely lay the PnP back down, go over with the iron for a bit, then start the peeling process again. Do this until you have peeled the PnP off entirely and you are satisfied with the results.

[njkmonty]

ok

then what do you use and thicknesses for faceplates?

[J M Fahey]

he already answered, he uses PCB material as faceplates ...literally.

Toner *can*  be transfered to aluminum, the problem is that any aluminum enclosure (or flat aluminum sheet) has 1000 times the thermal mass of the paper thin copper layer on a PCB material, so a simple clothes iron can not heat it enough ... or it will burn the paper in the process.

I have never tried it but guess the enclosure has to be preheated, maybe a couple minutes on the stove (no kidding) , hot enough to need handling it with gloves or a piece of cloth, so the extra few degrees needed can be supplied by the iron.

[Mustachio]

I used to let the iron head up on top of the enclosure to preheat, and yes use gloves it gets real hot. The toner will melt to the surface pretty quick and stick so you gotta be pretty precise when setting it down.

There are some cheaper alternatives to PnP blue from china(I think I seen it in green). Not sure how good they are. I've only used PnP blue a few times, first try was borked, second was pretty good. I think I remember ironing and pressing until I could see the defined traces or graphics through the blue. I think I even melted a piece once.

Look for a sharpie brand marker thats labeled as industrial. It's a little more etch proof for ferric chloride , but like all other inks it wont last with NaHo.