Yet another Bazz Fuss question....

Started by patatrick, June 13, 2012, 05:41:58 PM

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patatrick

So, I've built the deluxe darlington version from homewrecker, without the transformer. I've in fact built several iterations, changing darlingtons and diodes. I've finally found the combination transistor/diode that I think sounds the best. The one problem that has remained consistant among all variations that I have built is that when I kick it on, it sounds like a slow noise gate opening. After it opens up, it sounds great, and remains on and open as long as I leave the power turned on. I imagine that it is the transistor turning on. But, I'm  no engineer, so, any ideas out there? What may be causing this? Is there any way to fix this with minimal impact on the sound? Or, is it just a characteristic of the darlington? It seems to happen with any darlington I've tried, MPSA13, 2n5306, even one's i've made with 2 NPN's.


Thanks for your thoughts!
Patatrick

Earthscum

What input cap are you using? If your cap is too big, it will take a bit to charge up. At least, that's the only thing I can think of... or you've been putting your diode in backwards and have been hearing straight gain (if you haven't, don't laugh... was one of my first recurring mistakes when I started DIY pedals). As a matter of fact, try that with a 1n4148. The reverse leakage in some is just enough to keep the base pulled up to some kind of operating range. The input becomes ultra sensitive.  OT, I know, but if you're playing around...

So, back to the input cap... 2 things I can think of, cap too big (1u-10u works fine) or you have a pulldown (anti-pop) resistor that is too large. If you're using a 1M, try a 1u cap. If you don't have an input resistor, try one.
Give a man Fuzz, and he'll jam for a day... teach a man how to make a Fuzz and he'll never jam again!

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patatrick

I built the deluxe version found here: http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html

Aso you can see, there is a potentiometer that blends a .001uf and a 2.2uf cap, so that isn't the issue. I've also built versions with just a .02uf input cap and have had the same thing happening.

The diode is not in backwards, though I have done similar stuff while fiddling about.

RandomGlitch

Or have you wired the pedal so that you are actually switching the circuit on and off, rather than just bypassing it when it is "OFF"?

The board should remain powered up even when the effect is not engaged.

That's all I can think of that would make it behave like that.

patatrick

The switch is only connected to the input and the output.