Please help! Pedal isn't working, has weird symptom...

Started by elenore19, February 04, 2010, 11:00:07 PM

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elenore19

Hi everyone, my name's Elliot.
I'm new.
Pics at bottom.
So I just built a DOD 440 envelope filter clone (kit from generalguitargadgets). I followed the layout exactly (as far as I could tell) except I don't use batteries so that was left out..
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=119&Itemid=26
There are links to the layout/schematic/parts list that I used.
I don't have a multi-meter (just ordered one today) so I won't be able to test anything that way.

EDIT:
First problem fixed.
NEW problem...
I plug it in. Get sound when it's off. Click the switch and the LED comes on.
No sound. All I hear is a very apparent crackling that sort of got worse when I messed with the volume knob. My playing on the guitar had no effect on the sound as far as I could tell.
Help?

Not sure what else to tell ya.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Just spent the last 6 1/2 hours building this thing.
Thanks!

-Elliot

Pictures: (not very good, I know. Laptop camera is all I got) Please let me know of other pictures that you might need. Or any other info for that matter. I'm pretty sure I told you all I know, but I can never really be for sure.




jkokura

What this means is likely you have a wiring problem, and you may have a short in your power feed to the pedal.

Without pictures or more details it's hard to give you more help than that. My advice would be to go here and follow the instructions for posting a debugging thread: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

If it were me, I'd be looking closely at the wiring you've done and double, then triple checking it - but that's because I'm not very good at wiring so I have to do that with my builds. Again, pictures will help us.

You shouldn't worry much about the effect it's having on your other pedals for power - once you get the DIY pedal working right it *should* cause no problems with your other pedals.

*edit* I must have posted before you added some pictures, cause the first time I read it I saw none. Sorry, but the advice still stands!

Jacob

elenore19

Right, sorry. Yeah I saw that thread right after I posted this. I now have a link to the files I used and some pictures.

What would I look for with bad wiring? I assume one wire making contact where it shouldn't be.
I tried to be as thorough as I could when setting up the pedal. I tried to make this one with less wire so it was more "clean" but I found myself sort of straining some wires at some times to make a couple solders. Could something like that have damaged something?

Thanks again.

Quackzed

double check to see that you don't have +9v and ground reversed from the power jack.. or that your 9v+ isn't finding a path to ground somewhere...it occurs to me that if your +9 was connected to the ring of your input jack then it would be grounding the power if you inserted a cable into the input jack.
nothing says forever like a solid block of liquid nails!!!

elenore19

Thanks! I found it. Something similar to what you said. basically I have 2 wires that should be switched and I should be good to go. Good thing these weren't the hardest to solder or anything...Oh wait... ;)
Thanks again, I'll post back with results.

trjones1

Do you have anything separating the bottom of the pcb from the enclosure?  That could cause 9v shorting to ground.

elenore19

Yes I do, but I found the problem. Got some wires mixed up. The power problem is gone. But a new problem has risen.
Check main post for updates on the new issue...

elenore19

Bump?

I checked all my solder joints and made sure there were no connections that shouldn't be happening. (As far as I could tell)
Any suggestions?

yodude

Hi there.  I have a couple of suggestions.  First, take a breather.  Let your eyes freshen up a bit.  That's helped me lots of times.

Next, follow the debugging thread.  Since you don't have your DMM yet, here are some things you can do in the meanwhile:
- Check your offboard wiring.
- Check capacitor polarities.
- Check your offboard wiring again.
- Build an audio probe (see the faq) and fool around with it.
- Check your offboard wiring again.

You can also poke the switch and the circuit with your finger.  It's weird, but sometimes that helps!

Have fun.

jkokura

Again, I'll recommend the debugging process. Without the numbers that you provide using a DMM it's hard to say if the problem is on the board or if it's in the wiring.

My recommendation is to follow the debugging page closely, then post the numbers and better pictures if you can provide them here, then we'll be able to help you.

But to note, there could be any number of problems you can check - 1) the wiring is still messed up and you just fixed one of several problems, 2) a cold solder joint either in the soldering or on the PCB, 3) a part in the wrong place, 4) a backwards part that needs a specific orientation, 5) a fried part that was damaged due to your earlier power issues...

The list could go on. Debugging is very frustrating, I've done several on my own work, so I understand if you're now feeling very upset. There are two tools that really helped me - a DMM that helped me provide the numbers to guys here who helped me lots, and an audio probe which (mines super ugly) which helps me find the problem if the numbers are fine.

Usually I end up having wiring issues, and occasionally a backwards or improperly soldered joint.

Jacob

elenore19

Quote from: yodude on February 05, 2010, 10:51:32 AM
Hi there.  I have a couple of suggestions.  First, take a breather.  Let your eyes freshen up a bit.  That's helped me lots of times.

Next, follow the debugging thread.  Since you don't have your DMM yet, here are some things you can do in the meanwhile:
- Check your offboard wiring.
- Check capacitor polarities.
- Check your offboard wiring again.
- Build an audio probe (see the faq) and fool around with it.
- Check your offboard wiring again.

You can also poke the switch and the circuit with your finger.  It's weird, but sometimes that helps!

Have fun.
Alright, thanks. Do you have any suggestions as to What to check for when I check my offboard wiring? I'll work on the audio probe deal. I remember triple checking my polarities when I installed the capacitors, but I'll check again.
Thanks for the advice. I think I'll take a break from this pedal for a day or so.
Quote from: jkokura on February 05, 2010, 10:55:00 AM
Again, I'll recommend the debugging process. Without the numbers that you provide using a DMM it's hard to say if the problem is on the board or if it's in the wiring.

My recommendation is to follow the debugging page closely, then post the numbers and better pictures if you can provide them here, then we'll be able to help you.

But to note, there could be any number of problems you can check - 1) the wiring is still messed up and you just fixed one of several problems, 2) a cold solder joint either in the soldering or on the PCB, 3) a part in the wrong place, 4) a backwards part that needs a specific orientation, 5) a fried part that was damaged due to your earlier power issues...

The list could go on. Debugging is very frustrating, I've done several on my own work, so I understand if you're now feeling very upset. There are two tools that really helped me - a DMM that helped me provide the numbers to guys here who helped me lots, and an audio probe which (mines super ugly) which helps me find the problem if the numbers are fine.

Usually I end up having wiring issues, and occasionally a backwards or improperly soldered joint.

Jacob
Thanks again. I'll wait for my DMM to post another question and what not. So with the wiring...I should look for wires in the wrong place, should I also be looking for something to do with the soldering?
How do you tell if there is a cold solder joint? What IS a cold solder joint? (both of these questions I'll look up on my own. Just posting my thoughts)

I'll work on my other pedal while I wait for my DMM and then I'll check all the numbers.

Thanks again for your help and your patience. I'm too impatient. That being said, I'll work on getting the numbers and posting back here with those and better pictures.
Thanks.
-Elliot

caspercody

Looking at the top picture, there does not look to be a wire connected to the input lug on your input jack?

elenore19

Quote from: caspercody on February 05, 2010, 11:16:43 AM
Looking at the top picture, there does not look to be a wire connected to the input lug on your input jack?
Alright, I don't have the pedal with me right now. But I'll look into it. I see what you mean. (Realize that the picture is backwards, so by input jack you mean the one on the right in the picture?)
Thanks!

caspercody

Yes the one on the right. I read more on what you did, and maybe you do not need it since you are nt using the battery clip? But I know on the jacks I use that that lug is my input.

jkokura

Quote from: caspercody on February 05, 2010, 11:42:36 AM
Yes the one on the right. I read more on what you did, and maybe you do not need it since you are nt using the battery clip? But I know on the jacks I use that that lug is my input.

Actually, I think what's not hooked up there is the ring of the input jack, not the tip. He is getting bypass signal, so it's likely fine on that point.

But about the wiring - yes, you're looking for things that are not properly hooked up. I had a debug once that I swore the wiring was correct. I checked, and checked, and checked and couldn't find anything wrong. turned out, I hooked up the input pad on the PCB to the output lug of my switch, and the output pad to the input - that makes the circuit work fine in bypass and not work right when you engage the circuit. Things like that is what I mean with wiring. A DMM is also great because another problem with wiring can be poor or no connectivity - use the DMM to do beep tests at either ends of the wires and see that there's no breaks, and it will also help you find 'cold' or non working solder joints.

For your next pedal. I recommend slow and steady. Work on the PCB until it's all finished - take your time on every joint, use that DMM to make sure you have connectivity. When it comes to the wiring, I start by working with the 3PDT - I use the same wiring every time so I hook up all the wire of the proper length to all the switch lugs. Then I install it into the enclosure and connect up the PCB, LED (and resistor if necessary), jacks and power one at a time. I also make sure all grounds are connected to my input jack (usually 4 wires to the one lug). I double check everything lots, I use tape to label wires if I leave one side unconnected for a while, and I always, always, always follow the diagram I have on my computer even though I feel like I could do it without one. Until I get 10 pedals in a row right without needing a debug I'll continue to work with documentation every time.

Jacob

elenore19

Quote from: jkokura on February 05, 2010, 12:57:23 PM
Quote from: caspercody on February 05, 2010, 11:42:36 AM
Yes the one on the right. I read more on what you did, and maybe you do not need it since you are nt using the battery clip? But I know on the jacks I use that that lug is my input.

Actually, I think what's not hooked up there is the ring of the input jack, not the tip. He is getting bypass signal, so it's likely fine on that point.

But about the wiring - yes, you're looking for things that are not properly hooked up. I had a debug once that I swore the wiring was correct. I checked, and checked, and checked and couldn't find anything wrong. turned out, I hooked up the input pad on the PCB to the output lug of my switch, and the output pad to the input - that makes the circuit work fine in bypass and not work right when you engage the circuit. Things like that is what I mean with wiring. A DMM is also great because another problem with wiring can be poor or no connectivity - use the DMM to do beep tests at either ends of the wires and see that there's no breaks, and it will also help you find 'cold' or non working solder joints.

For your next pedal. I recommend slow and steady. Work on the PCB until it's all finished - take your time on every joint, use that DMM to make sure you have connectivity. When it comes to the wiring, I start by working with the 3PDT - I use the same wiring every time so I hook up all the wire of the proper length to all the switch lugs. Then I install it into the enclosure and connect up the PCB, LED (and resistor if necessary), jacks and power one at a time. I also make sure all grounds are connected to my input jack (usually 4 wires to the one lug). I double check everything lots, I use tape to label wires if I leave one side unconnected for a while, and I always, always, always follow the diagram I have on my computer even though I feel like I could do it without one. Until I get 10 pedals in a row right without needing a debug I'll continue to work with documentation every time.

Jacob
Thanks for all the help.
I honestly did take my time. ESPECIALLY with the PCB. So far I'm 0 for 2 on pedals with opamp chips. Not sure why. Since I mucked up the last one I worked with I wanted to make sure that I installed everything correctly. Granted I didn't/don't have a DMM to check after each solder, which I will do in the future when it arrives in the mail. But I really did double (if not triple) check each component on the PCB. Especially ones with polarity.
I noticed that there are about 4 spots where I feel like there is too much solder. Could this be causing my problems? I made sure to circle all spots on my diagram that I feel could lead to a problem. Which I circled a couple burnt wires...(Didn't make it through the plastic, so I'll assume they're okay..?)and circled solder joints that had too much solder. I'll check on those. I believe there was One wire which I had accidentally melted the plastic through to the wire. But seeing as I didn't (as far as I could tell) break the wire, I figured it'd be okay. I'll give it another check, and maybe replace it.
I'll check all my wiring again and Hope to find something.

Thanks again for all the help.