How do i make a drilling template?

[MmmPedals]

Any suggestions how to make a template and figure out the measurements on a computer?

[R.G.]

Well, you could do it the way I did when I came up with using paper drilling templates for effects. The simplest way for non-wizard computer users is to tape paper over the outside of the box, then very, very carefully measure exactly where to drill by using calipers, squares, dividers, and so on. Then un-wrap the paper, spread it out flat, and figure out how to get that drawn into the computer.

Otherwise, you're in for
(a) making a good 3-d model of the box
(b) making a manipulatable external "skin" on the 3-d model
(c ) placing the parts in the 3d model
(d) "unwrapping" the skin and unfolding it out to flat
(e) making that printable.

[akc1973]

What happened to the fun of trying something your own way and learning from that experience? 

[MmmPedals]

Oh trust me i've tried. i am getting frustrated that's why i asked.

[Toney]

Pretty much each build i do is different so..the non-computer way, that I use, is simple.

  Take you time.

  Draw an exact center line with a sharpie. Check that it is exact.
Lay all the components out on top of the box.
Look at them. Spend some time over a coffee and think - visualize all the clearances.
Mark all the drill point with an X
Mark all the drill hole with and punch and hammer. Measure again then.....

Ye olde carpenter's rule ; "measure it twice, cut it once"

Drill pilot holes. Measure them.
Measure with each increment up in size. You have some leeway to slightly drift any wayward holes to their correct orientation as you drill.

My conclusion....measure a lot. Measure at each drilling.
You can drill more, but you cannot un-drill, de-drill or anti-drill 

[amptramp]

There was a suggestion in another thread of using squared graph paper and determining all the positions on that, then centre-punching through the paper to get accurate centres for the holes.

[R.G.]

There was a suggestion in another thread of using squared graph paper and determining all the positions on that, then centre-punching through the paper to get accurate centres for the holes.

Yeah, I tried that first. I gave up, taped paper all over the box, marked it carefully, scanned the marked paper after removing it, and then used a drawing program to put index lines over the scanned lines on a fresh drawing layer, then made the scanned layer invisible for printing.

The real issue with cad is making an accurate model of the draft angles of the sides and the radius of curvature of the corners, and having that come out right for the next box. Get the radii wrong and the template will put the marks/holes in the wrong place on the next box.

There is a really strong undercurrent of people asking for computer programs to do X job when they don't understand what's involved in X. Sometimes you get lucky and it works. But sometimes the computer just helps you make mistakes faster. As Lewis Carroll said, when you don't know where you're going, any road will get you there.

[petemoore]

  1/2'' strips of wood almost the same dimensions as the box sides, just smaller.
  Box is now on stiff cardboard, the wood workpieces ready to be laid for template, glued on one side.
  I like contact cement cause it dries fast.
  Pulling the box out for drying of the cement, reveals the face centering template.
  I liked the folding paper/test drill method of making a pothole 'corner marker', trial and adjust method until I have a perfect template that has reduced the distance between X size pot body and inside walls, there's probably a way you could figure out to do better yet, very close and even suited my applications.
  Cut paper to fit tightly between the template stops flat on the cardboard [ie top of box sized sheet]. Fold in half, half half...then the other way, put evenly spaced creases in the paper [note that the inside fold will of course be slightly shorter than the outside fold, making them even is the goal].
  Now there's a grid of squares scaled to the box !
  Between this and the pot cornering jig, the cardboard is ready to be poked and drilled [ice pick makes great centering device, ball point pen pokes a mark-dent good enough too], then use a very small drill bit.
  Put the template on the box, use a punch to mark the holes, beging the drilling, a small bit is easier to keep centered for making a centering hole for the larger bits.
 

[moosapotamus]

I used to measure everything and draft it out by hand on graph paper... worked fine but was very time consuming. Now I use the ExpressPCB free CAD software. Lets you size and place everything very precisely, and prints out in actual size. Just because it's called a PCB layout program doesn't mean you can't use it for anything else that you would use a CAD program for. I've even used it to layout a basement remodeling job.

~ Charlie

[joegagan]

if you are doing multiple boxes with the same exact enclosure, a drilled marking template made of 1/8" plastic or phenolic might be worth your time.  make it oversize, with  8 screws on the perimeter to 'lock' it onto the top for perfect alignment every time. alternately, you could turn the template upside down, center the enclosure and glue wood strips on the perimeter for alignment guides.

make the marking holes very carefully. if you get one slightly off, fill it with epoxy and re-drill it.

make the marking holes large enough for a spring loaded center punch to mark through. if you haven't tried a spring loaded center punch, you will wonder how you ever lived without one once you do.

i put up a drilling tutorial at the FAQ this week,

Techniques for drilling straight and accurate holes in enclosures:

- layout. sounds obvious, care must be taken to get centerlines accurately laid out and marked. if using tape as a marking guide, remove it before actual drilling to facilitate seeing the bit engage the surface.

- spring loaded center punch. making a nice impression in the surface gives the bit a precise start point. remove tape after center punch marked divit is performed.

- use only high quality, sharp bits. a strong divit and good bit are the keys to preventing 'walking'.

- unibit types work well, as long as the center point is sharp and intact. the unibit has an added feature of putting a slight chamfer on the drill side of the hole if you carefully let the next 'step' slightly make a pass before letting off. leaves a nice finish.

- get to know your material and find the optimal speed/ torque ratio. if the bit is spinning too fast you will glaze the material and or the bit. too slow or not enough pressure may also build up heat or cause dangerous binding. if the bit is spinning out a nice spiral, that is usually a good indication of a good speed and torque ratio.

opinions vary on the use of cutting fluid for aluminum. for occasional stompbox drilling, skipping the fluid makes things a little neater and usually goes ok. for large quantities, consider using a cutting fluid to extend bit life and to cut down on clogging.

- ease up on breakthrough. a good percentage of drilling accidents occur at the point of binding/catching on breakthrough, spinning the work piece or the drill out of control.

- clamp your work. a hammond box will eat your hand like a shark if you are holding it and it spins.

a drill press is nice, but not necessarily required for stompbox work.