First Build...Spyder PSU

[Thump-Lump]

This is my first proper post here.  I joined a few weeks back and reading like crazy.  I have done a little bit of electronic DIY and replacement of components before but all of it has been VERY simple.  I decided that my first build would be a Spyder PSU as it seemed that it would be logical thing to have before getting into pedals and eating 9vdc batteries.  Did an order to Mouser and got the supplies I needed.  Dug up a piece of perfboard I had from about 1977 (left over from a abandoned high school project) and gutted a old passive subwoofer crossover box for an enclosure.  I found that even strip board would have been alot easier than this old perfboard.  Oh well....... I consider it an educational experience.  I was VERY pleased to power the PSU up for the first time and no magic smoke escaped.  Everything worked as it should.  115vac in and 9vdc X4 out.  WOOHOO    I also learned that hot glue is your friend on this old poorly spaced perfboard for keeping parts in place.  Below are some pics of this first build.  Feel free to comment, criticize, praise, bash, etc as you see fit.  I'm here to learn.  I believe the next build will be a BYOC 2 knob comp.

[R.G.]

That's far more impressive than my first builds were. Congratulations. Good work.

Let me enter my standard plea - the AC power line and what it will do to you are horribly unforgiving of any mistakes or inattention. Please be very, very, very careful in how you wire AC power and don't do it unless you already know how to do it safely. From where you are, consider having someone with AC power wiring experience look it over for you and point out any possible safety issues.

We still want you doing both electronics and music when you're old and gray.

[Thump-Lump]

Yea...I know AC isn't to be taken lightly.  The FIRST thing the AC sees inside is a fuse.  Beyond that, there is no AC exposed on the outside.  Any AC current that could be insulated, was.  It just wasn't feasible in some places inside.  But then, I do have sense enough to unplug it should I need to get back inside.

Plus...I'm already old and gray 

[R.G.]

So'm I, but I want you to get older and grayer. 

If it's insulated, what is the creepage and clearance distance between any conductor carrying AC line power and a user accessible metal surface? Is the user accessible metal (if any) grounded to AC power safety ground in a manner that will carry 25A of AC power (which was picked to ensure blowing a typical wall breaker in addition to a fuse, if any, in the unit)?

I'm not trying to be snippy - I really do want  you to play safe.

[Thump-Lump]

The second pic shows the perfboard mounted to a 1/8" ABS base.  In the pic and the one above it shows the AC line from tranny to tranny in the form of the clear insulated wire. 16 or 18 ga I can't remember which.  All the solder joints to the trannies are covered in hot glue to insulate and keep them from moving about.  The closest any open AC is to the top aluminum housing is the fuse holder.  It is riveted to the houseing as you can see in the top pic.  The silver dot on top of the housing is the head of the rivet.  The fuse holder has side shields so the housing would have to be destroyed before it would contact the housing.  The solder joints on the switch are also exposed inside and are fixed.  Again, it would have to be destroyed before it contacted the outer housing and then the fuse would blow.  4 amp fuse, which is a bit high but, should blow for any shorts in the AC.  The AC is routed first to the fuse, then to the switch and then down to the perfboard.  I learned longgggg ago to unplug anything AC BEFORE opening it up and that would be the only way to touch any AC current.

No "snippy" perceived.