Xerox Phaser 6015 for toner transfer

[rankot]

I am trying to use my Xerox Phaser 6015 for toner transfer, but not for PCB making, I am trying to transfer color print to stomp box face. I tried with normal paper, with label backing paper and with som kind of glossy photo paper, but still no success - only partial toner is transferred. I am using iron set to max temperature.

Have anyone used this or similar printer for toner transfer? I need some help... 

[karbomusic]

What is the surface like? If too polished/slick, there isn't much for the toner to bite into in my experience. Otherwise, not being perfectly clean will cause issues. If neither of those it comes down to being determined and persistent. 

[rankot]

Well, it is not polished, just simple aluminum box. But I am afraid that this printer's toner can't melt with my iron, so any help from someone who used it with success will be apreciated

[karbomusic]

We don't want the toner to melt, we just want it to release from the transfer paper, in other words if it actually melts it smudges just as an academic FYI. The typical range for release is ~275F to ~325F which I think most Irons 'should' be able to handle but maybe not. How did you clean the box you are testing with? Any oils etc from the manufacturing process will render transfers mostly impossible. Have you tried hitting it with something like 800 grit after proper cleaning?

[rankot]

I washed it with kitchenware soap. That shall remove any dirt or grease.

[karbomusic]

I etch enclosures all the time and it always comes down to being clean from substances, just rough 'enough' and enough pressure with the tip of the iron to make sure every spot is properly heated. Also, a B&W printer creates higher density B&W prints than a color printer - and some toners just don't seem to play nice.



I use HP presentation paper and I can actually tell when it has bonded because the pattern shows through (very subtly) on the top side of the paper. I clean mine with acetone, and sand because I don't feel soap and water is going to do the job properly. Take a piece of #0000 steel wool to it as a test and see if that works better as that will eliminate a couple variables.

[rankot]

Which model of printer do you use?

[karbomusic]

I was using an HP color laser but was a bit of a pain due to being a color printer, I then switched to a cheapo HP B&W printer... Actually this one below, not perfect but has done a pretty good job:

http://www.amazon.com/HP-LaserJet-Monochrome-CE658A-BGJ/dp/B00847UWUE/

I don't know anything about the Zerox you mention so I can't recommend about it's toner etc. If it has a web based or desktop based configuration utility there are some tricks you can do to increase density.

[rankot]

OK, thanks, maybe it is just a toner problem. I will try to print on friend's HP, and report back!

[PRR]

Transferring toner to a metal box, you must get the box hot, hot enough to accept warm toner.

This may need more heat than some modern clothes-irons can deliver.

Pre-heating the box may help.

Don't burn yourself!

[davent]

I haven't tried colour transfers or going directly to aluminum, but instead of decals, for a few years now i've been doing black toner tranfers using acrylic medium. You glue the the reversed image to the enclosure with acrylic medium (GAC 200), let it dry overnight then wet the paper backing and rub it off.

http://www.calsk8.com/zeitgeist/acrylicgeltransfers.htm






dave

[rankot]

I haven't tried colour transfers or going directly to aluminum, but instead of decals, for a few years now i've been doing black toner tranfers using acrylic medium. You glue the the reversed image to the enclosure with acrylic medium (GAC 200), let it dry overnight then wet the paper backing and rub it off.

http://www.calsk8.com/zeitgeist/acrylicgeltransfers.htm

This looks quite awesome! I have read your article, but I am not sure if I can buy acrylic medium in my little town. I can buy some latex based color, so this could be the medium. Shall I wait for color to dry completely with print pressed onto metal, or not? How can I know when to remove the paper if not completely dry?

[davent]

Thread pictures are mine but someone elses article...

Have seen people use acrylic paint for the process, (acrylic paint is acrylic medium with pigment added), no idea about latex paints, i'd try googling. As far as drying, i set it aside and let it dry overnight. Next day wet the paper rub some of the paper off, don't scrub, when progress seems to have stopped i let it dry again, then wet and rub, repeat the cycle as often as needed to remove all  the paper fibers.

dave