Can someone give a better grounding for this?

Started by kalabian, November 23, 2010, 11:19:48 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

kalabian



this is a passive A/B loop switcher. The switching is fine but the problem is it's too noisy.

Can someone please correct the grounding or even the wiring? please. this is my very first project.   :icon_cry:

petemoore

  Did you test for beep between the input cable sleeve and every jacks sleeve lug ?
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

kalabian

^ sorry, what's a BEEP?


i apologize for my dumbness.  :D

petemoore

  a DMM, Digital Multi Meter test {for actual continuity'
  Set DMM range-wheel to diode-mode, at the: --->l---  symbol, when the lead-probes are touched together a beep sound indicates the connection, and this beep should occur when the probes are touched at the far ends of any trace/lead/wire [or combination thereof]  indicating a 'connection' that looks like a connection, is 'measures' as connected. [or some very low resistance].
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

runmikeyrun

if you're using a metal box and metal switchcraft/neutrik jacks the jacks will all ground themselves together by touching the metal of the box.  If you're using another type of box (plastic, wood) or using plastic jacks you'll need to connect all the grounds.  Do a continuity test like Pete suggested to make sure.
Bassist for Foul Spirits
Head tinkerer at Torch Effects
Instagram: @torcheffects

Likes: old motorcycles, old music
Dislikes: old women

MikeH

You might want to consider switching the outputs too, not just the inputs.  Any pedals that you have in the inactive loop that produce noise (Dist, OD, Compressor, phaser, etc) are going to dump that noise right out into your output, even when that loop isn't in use.
"Sounds like a Fab Metal to me." -DougH

kalabian

Quote from: runmikeyrun on November 23, 2010, 12:01:17 PM
if you're using a metal box and metal switchcraft/neutrik jacks the jacks will all ground themselves together by touching the metal of the box.  If you're using another type of box (plastic, wood) or using plastic jacks you'll need to connect all the grounds.  Do a continuity test like Pete suggested to make sure.

maybe i'll try this, because the enlosure is not yet drilled.

Quote from: MikeH on November 23, 2010, 02:49:20 PM
You might want to consider switching the outputs too, not just the inputs.  Any pedals that you have in the inactive loop that produce noise (Dist, OD, Compressor, phaser, etc) are going to dump that noise right out into your output, even when that loop isn't in use.

i'll try this too. thanks

kalabian

Quote from: MikeH on November 23, 2010, 02:49:20 PM
You might want to consider switching the outputs too, not just the inputs.  Any pedals that you have in the inactive loop that produce noise (Dist, OD, Compressor, phaser, etc) are going to dump that noise right out into your output, even when that loop isn't in use.

this worked. thanks.

BTW, how do you solder the lugs of the 3pdt switch properly? the plastic part almost melted but the solder still doesn't stick.

runmikeyrun

Make sure you're using the right iron and the right solder.  Maybe you have lead-free solder, that requires more heat to melt. 
Bassist for Foul Spirits
Head tinkerer at Torch Effects
Instagram: @torcheffects

Likes: old motorcycles, old music
Dislikes: old women