decals are lifting when being drilled... FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUU

Started by big bustle, January 10, 2011, 08:03:24 PM

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MikeH

Quote from: theundeadelvis on January 11, 2011, 05:52:59 PM
Quote from: pazuzu on January 11, 2011, 03:06:21 PM
Quote from: Solidhex on January 11, 2011, 02:43:31 PM
If you're decal has your drill guides on it why don't you just print out a paper copy, tape it to your enclosure, drill it, then put the real decal over it? It should be pretty simple.

+1
+4 That's exactly how I do mine.

That's what I used to do too- only I put it on with a glue-stick.  That way the shards from drilling dont end up between the enclosure and the template, and scratch the top all to hell.  Then the template comes off easily with warm, soapy water.
"Sounds like a Fab Metal to me." -DougH

big bustle

glue stick! brilliant! why didn't i think of that!

i'm trying that next. now.. with the glue stick. can you still slide the decal around to line it up before it sets?

MikeH

A little bit, if you put it on a tad thick.  It's actually pretty nice, the glue lets it slide but only very slowly, so it's really easy to fine-tune exactly where you want it.  Then let it set up for a few minutes or so.  You still want to drill pilot holes though.
"Sounds like a Fab Metal to me." -DougH

teletroy

Quote from: big bustle on January 11, 2011, 07:46:54 PM
so the predrill process has been tested. seems to work out. used a regular bit then switched to the step bit.

tried on a 6 hole pedal.

here's the thing

some of my pedals have 20 holes that are VERY tightly spaced. and i'm often doing 15-20 at a time. taping a template to each one adds a lot of extra time and is a TOTAL bummer.

i was hoping to streamline the process even more.

i'm considering using something with an adhesive back. maybe inkjet stickers? i'm sure they make these somewhere.


Guess you have to decide if it's worth doing it the tried and tested way the first time.   OR you can add even more time by having to do it over again because it got messed up.

chi_boy

This place sounds like they have a good solution for you:

http://www.pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/index.html

Just ditch the decals all together.


Haven't used it myself, but others have spoken about it here.
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

The Leftover PCB Page

Gordo

Quote from: Mark Hammer on January 12, 2011, 02:43:03 PM
I don't use decals, so I may be way off base, but what about using the template on the decal to aim initial smaller holes, putting some masking tape over it, then fionishing the drilling from the other side (i.e., flipping the box over)?  Or does the location of the holes preclude that?
I end up creating my decal after I've drilled so I burn up a rainforest worth of paper getting my design to fit before I commit to the decal paper.  Less than green I admit.  That said I think the killer way to go is by silkscreening.  I'm winging it here so haven't done any searches into the topic lately but has anyone got any advice/tutorials into how noobs can get into screening.  I'm talking walk me thru theory to supplier to finished product.  I haven't tried it since high school and I'm not sure but think that was before electric lights and we used steam powered guitars (transitional between acoustic and electric).
Bust the busters
Screw the feeders
Make the healers feel the way I feel...

gtudoran

Hey guys, as a replay to this drill the holes first (i don't use a papper template, instead i use a transparent foil template wich i can reuse many times). Regarding the artwork i found a new, simpler and cheaper method (at least for me). I use self adhesive paper wich wis laminated with a transparent foil (like the one that you use when you need to protect a document from water). Works like a charm. I will try to put a picture tutorial next week.

Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound