help a chimp with a vero problem, please?

Started by davepedals, March 21, 2011, 12:07:28 AM

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davepedals

i'm sure to feel like a chimp when i get an answer on this but...............

i'm a PCB guy and have decided I want to do vero board. Problem is that my brain can't seem to grasp something i'm sure is simple and i'm overlooking!  Please look at the pic below:



Ok, naturally the layouts for vero projects show the strip (copper side) for easy understanding of the wiring.
What is twisting my brain is this:

the ic socket shows it's correct pin setup, fine but when you mount it on the other side pin 1 would now be in pin 8's position.
The numbers are reversed 8 7 6 5 - 1 2 3 4.  What am i missing here?  Man i hate it when simple things confuse me!  aggghhhhhh!  I've always had a problem with mirror imaging concepts!
Can ya help a guy out?
Thanks!
dave

linny1982

vero layouts are shown exactly like pcb layouts, copper side down. so the pinout is correct

ayayay!

Imagine you're seeing through the veroboard, as if it were opaque. 

Imagine it's just like a breadboard, where you can't see the traces beneath the holes, but you know they're their.

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markeebee

Just to be double sure, I always print out a layout mirror-imaged (or at least fudge the image it so it's reversed on-screen).  Makes it much easier to get the cuts in the track in the right place, and also acts as a reference when soldering.

deadastronaut

you got it..'mirror image'...

like mark said...just reverse 'flip horizontal' ...sorted..makes life easy... :icon_cool:
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davepedals

yes reversing the image would be very helpful i think. So far I've been marking the trace cuts by inserting a wire through the top then i just turn the vero over and hit it with the old magic marker. 

Thanks for all the help!

dave

deadastronaut

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https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

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digi2t

I've found that marking the cuts on the component side with a big Sharpy helps me. I dab the holes with the Sharpy, and when I flip over the board, the black ink tends to bleed a bit into the hole. I can see it when I look at the copper side at a bit of an angle. When I marked all the holes, then I cut the traces with a drill bit, larger than the strip of copper. I don't go right through, just camfer the hole to cut the copper. Also, before I spin the bit (MANUALLY!!), I have a habit of checking from the component side to see if the point of the bit is truely in the right hole. I've never had a mishap yet, but measure twice, cut once.

I've done the paper/poke thing too. It's a pain in the pokus. I build everything on stripboard, the Sharpy trick has really sped things up for me.
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davepedals

i'm going to try the sharpy method!  thanks!
dave

digi2t

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, I have one of those circular gooseneck lamps with the magnifing glass in the center. I use the light from it to backlight the board when I'm looking for the Sharpy ink in the holes from the copper side. I guess any small desk lamp would do. I find it helps as well.

Cheers,
Dino
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