Help for booster....

[alex.myro3]

Hi.I want to make this pedal   http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=87    . This circuit has millbypass.The parts that i am order its with 3dpt switch.what i can do now???
how can i wirring now??its better with millbypass or not???

[Govmnt_Lacky]

The board is simple enough. Just wire it up as shown. 

[MikeH]

You can still use a 3pdt to wire a millenium bypass- just ignore one of the poles.  A dpdt is really 2 switches in one; a 3pdt is 3 switches in one.  You'll just have one unused pole.  Read all about switches in the wiki link at the top!

As for your last question; mil bypass isn't necessarily "better".  It allows for true bypass with an LED, using only a dpdt, instead of a 3pdt.

[alex.myro3]

you mean,that is the same??no changes in sound??

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

Sound doesn't change. You can build the pcb without the mill parts and use the 3pdt wiring from the project "Offboard wiring" also at tonepad.
Fp

[alex.myro3]

i am very beginer to circuits and i dont know how can i make the circuit without mill.can you help me??wich is better??with mill or without?>

[petemoore]

  If you have pole and throw lugs which close when effect is on, open when effect is off...as yet unassigned...connecting an LED circuit:
 LED/Current limiting resistor/Power supply.
 :through it will providing lighting when effect is on.
 Such as with 3PDT and true bypass:
 True bypass involves 2 SPDT's [out of the '3' in '3'PDT, each of the three poles has 2 throws one each side, pole in the middle].
 That leaves three lugs unused [using 'standard bypass' wiring assignment].
 Throw/pole/throw represent the three unsoldered switch lugs.
 The jumper bypass wire goes one the bypass-is-connected side, you want the LED routed through the opposite side of the switch, so conctact between the pole/throw is when effect is on, open when in bypass mode.
 Other than sharing the same the power supply, the LED circuit is completely independant to the audio effect circuit.
  The Mill bypass uses a sheet of glass/high impedance 'tap' to 'read' the effect output status without 'pulling' hard enough to cause detectable loading, this state change in output causes the Mill Mosfet to control current through the LED in relation to on/off of effect.
  A bit more complex than the first method using a 3pdt, which [boiled down] routes LED circuit current through the simplest type of switch: two contacts are open or closed =
  spst, >l l< ].

[alex.myro3]

  If you have pole and throw lugs which close when effect is on, open when effect is off...as yet unassigned...connecting an LED circuit:
  LED/Current limiting resistor/Power supply.
  :through it will providing lighting when effect is on.
  Such as with 3PDT and true bypass:
  True bypass involves 2 SPDT's [out of the '3' in '3'PDT, each of the three poles has 2 throws one each side, pole in the middle].
  That leaves three lugs unused [using 'standard bypass' wiring assignment].
  Throw/pole/throw represent the three unsoldered switch lugs.
  The jumper bypass wire goes one the bypass-is-connected side, you want the LED routed through the opposite side of the switch, so conctact between the pole/throw is when effect is on, open when in bypass mode.
  Other than sharing the same the power supply, the LED circuit is completely independant to the audio effect circuit.

what is the best for the pedal??with mill or without??if without how can i do this?

[MikeH]

Neither is better - just two different ways of doing the same thing.  The easiest thing for you would be to do the mill bypass, since that's what the layout you're using calls for.  Otherwise you'd have to pick apart the layout a little.

Like I said above, just ignore one of the poles on your switch.

3pdt looks like this:

_  _  _
_  _  _
_  _  _

Dpdt looks like this:

_  _
_  _
_  _

Just ignore the middle lugs and hook up the switch as the diagram shows:

_  x  _
_  x  _
_  x  _

Here's a great page on switches:  http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/

[petemoore]

  Outline ''better''.
 Quick ?
 Kinda depends on whether a suitable switching scheme components are available, if the 3pdt challenged the Mill to a race with everything for both...
 The mill would probably win the race in a production line.
 Mill bypass would be dusted in a first-time DIY prototype sense, debuggin' a mosfet detector is exponentially more complicated for first time.
 3pdt bypass indicator: what is essentially analagous to a flashlight w/switch circuit with the LED/R, there's only a few things that could go probably non-catastrophically wrong.
  .. with the parts and understanding of a few LED Debugs at hand, the wiring/working LED Switch in a 3pdt takes about 2 minutes to wire up.
 The millenium is far superiour for anyone looking to absorb 'challenge info'...but is probably a wire-up/fire-up onbaord or daughterboard affair.
 Price wise varies by what it varies by, by calculations and/or end results.
Time to order-/sort the parts out: the 3pdt wins, hands down. Get that one thing and the LED/R/Power supply is 2 solder nodes [and one easily pre-checkable polarity orientation] away from light on/light off.