Help with stomp switch wiring!!

Started by mordechai, June 06, 2011, 06:45:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

mordechai

I am using the stomp switch wiring board from Small Bear (here's the link to a diagram -- http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=870 ) and trying to wire up a tonepad pcb for the Tonebender Mk 2.  I have definitely done something wrong.  When the switch is off, the guitar signal comes through, but when I turn it on, there's no sound.  The PCB is soldered properly so the trouble is with the switch wiring (maybe to the jacks?).  Can anybody please help?

bluesman1218

We would have to see a clear closeup photo to give an opinion. BTW, have you checked your wiring for proper continuity?
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals

EATyourGuitar

I wouldn't know if its the switch wiring or the other PCB not working. try jumpering the send and return on the switch pcb and see if it will pass the guitar signal exactly like the bypass. it should be the same when operating the switch. you can also test each pin of the switch pcb for continuity to any other pin of the switch pcb. then press the switch and test it again. your results may not be accurate if you have other things wired wrong so you may want to disconnect all the wires from the switch pcb while you test it. or you could post a gut shot and maybe we can spot the problem before you start working on it.
WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

R.G.

Here's the deal - to figure out how switches work you need (1) a meter with an ohms range (2) pencil (3) paper (4) a few minutes at most.

The whole point of switches is that on one setting, certain terminals are connected together, others are not. On the next setting, some other set of terminals are connected together, and some left open.  The ohmmeter tells you that. All you need is a bit of time, clear thought, and a drawing to write down what connects to what in which setting.

Stay cool, take a disciplined approach, and think of what switches do.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

mordechai

Quote from: R.G. on June 06, 2011, 07:47:02 PM

Stay cool, take a disciplined approach, and think of what switches do.

I'm trying, R.G., but I am also failing.  The PCB I'm using is the Tonepad PCB for a Tonebender Mk 2, and this should be much simpler.  The Smallbear stompswitch board is supposed to simply take the signal from the in and out of the PCB and send leads to the tips of the in/out jacks.  But for some reason, I can't get it to work at all.  I tried wiring up a different stomp switch according to the wiring diagram for the PCB on Tonepad, but that turned out to be a failure as well -- and it seems more complex than it needs to be...

Really frustrated and disheartened right now.

Govmnt_Lacky

I never really understood the real "purpose" behind these stomp switch extension boards  ???

It doesn't save any time... It doesn't lessen the amount of soldering... why use them??

If I were you, I would just solder the wires directly to the 3PDT (ignoring the LED circuit for now) according to this diagram:

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=76

You want to follow Layout #5 (minus the LED portion of course)

Wire your circuit this way and retry. If you get a good signal in bypass AND with the circuit, wire up the LED and you are done!

Good Luck  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

bluesman1218

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on June 07, 2011, 08:43:13 AM
I never really understood the real "purpose" behind these stomp switch extension boards  ???

It doesn't save any time... It doesn't lessen the amount of soldering... why use them??

I haven't used the boards yet, but I will be. I like the idea of not soldering wires to the switch. I'm just too clumsy and this will definitely make my life a little easier. I have to give etching my own boards a try and this seems like a good place to start. 2 cents...
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: bluesman1218 on June 07, 2011, 12:13:06 PM
I like the idea of not soldering wires to the switch. I'm just too clumsy and this will definitely make my life a little easier.

I just do not see the difference between soldering the wires to the lugs of the 3PDT and soldering them to the tiny holes on the board  :-\

To each their own I guess....  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

R.G.

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on June 07, 2011, 08:43:13 AM
I never really understood the real "purpose" behind these stomp switch extension boards  ???
It doesn't save any time... It doesn't lessen the amount of soldering... why use them??
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on June 07, 2011, 12:22:29 PMust do not see the difference between soldering the wires to the lugs of the 3PDT and soldering them to the tiny holes on the board 
Quote from: bluesman1218 on June 07, 2011, 12:13:06 PM
I like the idea of not soldering wires to the switch. I'm just too clumsy and this will definitely make my life a little easier.
I can see the reason behind just making it physically easier, I guess. But I'm with GL - it baffles me as to why it would be simpler or more advantageous intellectually to have a little PCB to stick on the switch, then run wires off the switch. You still have to identify which wire goes into which hole, which is the same task as identifying which wire goes to which pin of the switch, and you introduce yet another part that can be defective, soldered wrong, etc.

There are times where one just has to step up to digging out what's connected to what by switches, wires, etc. That's what a continuity light or beeper setting on a meter is for. And it's a fairly fundamental skill that you're going to need.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

EATyourGuitar

#9
this is how I do it


this photo matches the layout exactly. some people loop a peice of wire when they need to connect two posts. I just strip it long and thread it through. I'm using solid copper so I guess that you might have problems with stranded wire moving around. in that case just make a loop of wire that goes around the switch. I like to call the board connections send and return so I dont get them confused with the in and out jacks.
WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

jdub

Negative or positive ground Tonebender?  Make sure V+ & ground aren't switched...
A boy has never wept nor dashed a thousand kim

kirs

I recently put this diagram together for me to reference during builds.  Hope it helps.


EATyourGuitar

that will work no problem but being a perfectionist I decided that it was inferior since there are two mechanical connections instead of one when in bypass. the switch does have a resistance greater than zero and it does create a very small voltage spike with a very short duration. very small stuff but I just figured one is better.
WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

deadastronaut

Quote from: jdub on June 07, 2011, 07:48:18 PM
Negative or positive ground Tonebender?  Make sure V+ & ground aren't switched...

good question!... :icon_mrgreen:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//