Having problems etching

Started by azrael, August 20, 2011, 12:45:26 AM

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azrael

I can't seem to get the whole design to transfer. Maybe only get about half of it.
I have the iron set to the hottest setting, what else should I do?

I've tried it twice, getting about the same results, which is a very incomplete image.

I want to make beautiful etches like Slade and FrequencyCentral!  :icon_lol:

Earthscum

Most likely, where your image isn't transferring is where the top of the box is concaved. What I do is get most of the image down, then use the tip of the iron to make sure it's all down. I usually let it cool a bit, first, so the transfer isn't gummy and sliding around on me, then I work a small area at a time. You can kind of see when it has had enough heat and is adhered well. Just be careful so you don't get too much heat and smudge the image... take your time, let the hot areas cool a bit.

Good luck!
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Crowella

Make sure the surface is clean. Scrub it tidy with Methylated Spirits and then dry it carefully without leaving fingeroprints and it should at least improve it  ;) I had this issue when I made my tremolo. It wouldn't transfer to the PCB properly no matter what I was doing or for how long. I just scrubbed the PCB as clean as I could with metho and it worked brilliantly the next time. Could be the case here.

Also follow what earthscum said, is vital the transfer doesn't slide around or get gummy.  :)
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platinum

Have you tried the photo resist method?

Here's a decent tutorial by Make Magazine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWnfnt2rNO0

I tried toner transfer a couple times but it takes longer and is a lot more work.

azrael

Oh, I'm sorry guys, I meant that it was an enclosure, I just realized that wasn't clear. Haha.


I get great results etching PCBs, actually, using the photo paper method.

But enclosures is another story. :(

Earthscum

One other think I guess I should've added... make sure you wipe the surface with Lacquer Thinner, or (preferably, but more hazardous of a chemical) Acetone. Aluminum is extremely porous, and the surface, even polished, will hold an incredible amount of oil from the casting or machining process. This was suggested by Crowella, as well.

If you want a dull, brushed surface, a scotch-brite pad works great. That also helps adhesion. Whether you are using a polished box or raw, or brushed, just make sure you wipe it down good.
Give a man Fuzz, and he'll jam for a day... teach a man how to make a Fuzz and he'll never jam again!

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azrael

Hm....I haven't scrubbed or cleaned it with acetone, I will do that on my next attempt. Hopefully it goes better than my last two!

John Lyons

Denatured alcohol is far less toxic and just as good of a degreaser/cleaner as well as being
far less smelly.
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stoopkid

Are you using a "Brother" brand printer? I was for weeks before I read somewhere that they are no good for toner transfer as they use much higher temperatures than other printers. I had the same problem even after an iron and two different laminators.