Gator wiring question

[Seven64]

So I am about to start building a clone of the PIAA Gator, but am confused on the trigger part.  What purpose does it serve?  I was planning on wiring the in/out to a standard 3pdt stomp, and wiring that as usual,but then I saw this trigger switch.  It seems that the input jack is wired directly into the circuit.  Can I avoid this and just wire it like I would a normal pedal?  Do I have to add a 2nd input jack?  I don't even know what the trigger is/means, so if somebody could explain it that would be awesome.  I really like the Boss Slow Gear, but from what I have read this is far more adjustable and versatile while getting the same swell/violin effect.

Thanks in advance.  Here is a link to the project file I am using:

http://gaussmarkov.net/layouts/gator/gator-project.pdf

[Rodgre]

If you do not wish to use an external source to trigger the gate (a drum machine or sequenced sound to create a synced tremolo effect, for example) just omit it and make sure the connections that were to be on that jack are jumpered.

[Seven64]

ah sweet.  and what is the switch for?

[Mark Hammer]

The switch disables the effect, but does not fully bypass the circuit.  Depending on how fussy yu want to be, and what sorts of switches you have sitting around, you can either decide to go "cancel" (what is shown") or "bypass" (which would necessitate the usual 3PDT).

[Seven64]

The switch disables the effect, but does not fully bypass the circuit.  Depending on how fussy yu want to be, and what sorts of switches you have sitting around, you can either decide to go "cancel" (what is shown") or "bypass" (which would necessitate the usual 3PDT).

oh, so adding a 3pst could bypass the swell effect but still making it a noise gate if i wire the in/out to my stomp?

[Mark Hammer]

The switch disables the effect, but does not fully bypass the circuit.  Depending on how fussy yu want to be, and what sorts of switches you have sitting around, you can either decide to go "cancel" (what is shown") or "bypass" (which would necessitate the usual 3PDT).

oh, so adding a 3pst could bypass the swell effect but still making it a noise gate if i wire the in/out to my stomp?

It is always a noise gate.  What allows it to swell is that it is capable of a slow turn-on time.  The switch shown in the schematic that connects to V+ defeats the gating action by having the gate permanently on.  If a person want to select between in/out and swell/gate, that could be done by wiring in a switch that straddled the 250k attack/delay pot with a straight wire connection, mimicking setting it to minimum time.  That way, a person could pick their desired ramp-up time, leave it that way, and revert back and forth to normal noise-gate functioning.  

The 3PDT would be for completely bypassing the circuit.  Keep in mind that the inclusion of a gain control means that it can be set louder or softer than bypass.  Personally, I don't always insist on indicator LEDs, and can often do the switching I need with a good old X-wing DPDT.  However, with the circuit not being easily differentiable from a clean bypass signal, it's good to be able to go back and forth and compare effect/bypass WITH an indicator LED.

Blue added after.

[gtown_caps_fan]

So I just built this circuit, it's hooked up to my test rig. I did wire up a momentary switch for SW1, and I have 3PDT on my test rig. I have a switchcraft jack with the tip shunt, but I don't think I am going to use it on this, so I just jumpered the trigger pads.

It works as expected, except for one thing. The level pot seems to be wired on the layout backwards. It gets louder when I turn the knob to the left (counter-clockwise), and I definitely have pad 1 connected to lug 1 of the pot, the lug on the bottom left of the pot as viewed from the front (knob/shaft side). I am going to switch this up on my build since it is not intuitive the way that it is currently. I am just surprised that nobody else mentioned it, at least that I saw when I searched this board. I don't need any assistance, the other info in this thread and the others here on DIYSB helped a great deal. I just thought I would leave this comment in case someone else is looking for help on this build later.

[PRR]

> The level pot seems to be wired on the layout backwards.

Agree with diagnosis and fix.