Electrolytic re-cap on modern lead-free PCB with copper planes problems

[frank_p]

I am trying to change the electros that have bulged and I am barely able to melt the solder when unsoldering. In fact, I am saying: unable.  Is it possible that there are some kind of lead-free solder that are not removable ?  And I think the copper planes don't help it...  Here is what I've done so far:

- Normal soldering station: don't melt
- Unregulated temperature iron : don't melt
- Unsoldering iron with rubber bulb : don't melt
- Butane iron at full blow: don't melt (very hard slush)
- Mixing the solder with leaded solder and then use copper wick with flux and butane iron: work more or less but unable to clear the (plated ?) holes.

What can I do ?  Throw everything in the trash ?  

[diagrammatiks]

what is your normal soldering iron station?

a butane is definitely not going to work.

a desoldering pump and a really hot iron would help.

[frank_p]

what is your normal soldering iron station?

Pace Sdr-Tek ST 25
http://www.pacedirect.com/product.php?id=1741

and

Edsyn 951SX
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=951SX

a butane is definitely not going to work.

I thought it could go higher in temperature...

a desoldering pump and a really hot iron would help.

Yeah I tried the manual desoldering pump but it's no help since it doesn't melt...

[defaced]

Hot iron + big tip with fresh solder on it (big tip for heat capacity, fresh solder for better heat transfer) + added leaded solder to the joint = easier to remove lead-free solder joint.  If that doesn't work, there are low melting point solders like chip-quik that you can get to help you.  http://www.chipquik.com/  Basically the alloys in the solder drop the melting point down so far that it is very easy to remove the part. 

[arawn]

chipquick is the bomb, it's also a little pricey

[DavenPaget]

Throw a little bit of 60/40 solder and then push the temps up to 375C
and it will melt 

[R.G.]

All good advice. Lead free solder melts at a higher temperature, does not liquify as fast or as well, and makes the conduction to a plane worse by being at a higher temp.

I like the ideas of using low-temp solders to alloy the joint down to a lower temp. Chip Quick may be good, I haven't used it. I have used both 60-40 and eutectic in similar situations. You need to get it hot enough to melt locally quickly before the heat can conduct out to the plane and do other ugly things like lifting copper pads, removing the plated-through barrel, etc.

Of course, your government may have already decided for you that you can't be trusted with solders bearing any lead, so you may not be able to find any.  In which case, your options are to do your best with what you have.

[frank_p]

It's like to comb a giraffe.

Hot iron + big tip with fresh solder on it (big tip for heat capacity, fresh solder for better heat transfer) + added leaded solder to the joint = easier to remove lead-free solder joint.

I had to pass five to ten times per hole.  To open the hole I forced a small needle on one side and the iron on the other.  Long process and not sure that I did not damage/burn any connections/traces.  ...But the holes are still too small to solder leads into it  Half of the holes done.  What a drag...  The area where there is no copper planes is much easier.

For me I think that solder-free + small pad + copper plane is a real pain.