newb help with rangemaster

Started by tfletchii, April 14, 2012, 10:43:50 AM

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tfletchii

building a rangemaster according to Geofex using the ggg wiring diagram 3dpt wiring with dc, and input ground. Unit works fine in bypass and the led is working correctly. When the pedal is engaged I'm getting about a 3/4 volume drop. The pot is responsive, in that, the signal is louder when it is maxed out and nearly silent when it is fully CCW. I"m using an NKT275 with a tab, no dots. I'm assuming the tab is the emitter and not the collector. If I plug it in with the tab in the collector spot I get no volume when pedal is engaged. 

The only changes I've made is i wired in some variable resistors in Rb1 and Rbe so I would be able to fine tune the circuit if I change transistors out.

I think I have a short or bad soldering connection but wanted to make sure I wasn't wrong from the start with something.

I'm not able to get a dc voltage reading on the transistor. Can I test it from any ground position or is there one in particular to use.

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/rangemaster/atboost.pdf

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_pnp_dcj_gi.pdf

thanks everyone this is my first pedal and first non pcb build. I've build some mic pre's and vintage compressors for my studio and thought this would be a good introduction.

Colonel Angus

First, visually inspect the board, look for shorts and bad soldering. Make sure anything that is supposed to go to ground or power does so.Do you have a digital Multi-Meter? I would recommend checking the continuity  to check any points you suspect are cold-soldered, etc. Usually I just reflow the solder in general to be sure.  Also make sure your variable resistors are wired correctly. Did you socket the tranny or solder it directly to the board? GE trannys are particularly sensitive to heat. I'm a noob too, these are some things that have helped me.

Here is info by RG Keen on testing transistors.
http://www.geofex.com/fxdebug/trantest.htm

Quote from: frequencycentral on June 16, 2012, 12:59:15 PM
Why should you not have 90o angles? Do the electrons bunch up in the corners?

tfletchii

socketed the transistor and I wired the trimmers right and set them to the optimal resistance 68k and 3.9K. I'll go back and resolder the joints and check it out

LucifersTrip

Quote from: tfletchii on April 14, 2012, 10:43:50 AM
I'm not able to get a dc voltage reading on the transistor. Can I test it from any ground position

yes, any point connected to the + battery, which on the schematic is the entire bottom "line"

this is your first step in troubleshooting.

always think outside the box

tfletchii

I've checked continuity and it is good everywhere it should be. I'm not getting a dc voltage reading on the collector or anywhere on the terminal strip. This makes me think I have a wiring issue. I have the black wire (-) off the battery going to the dc jack and then off the dc jack to the LED with resistor. Then from the other end of the led to the 3pdt. With it wired this way, where is power getting connected to the terminal strip? Should I connect a wire from L5 on the terminal strip to the DC jack? and run the Led from L5? Or am I just way off?

thanks again

Colonel Angus

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=57657.0

This thread has links to several PNP wiring diagrams. I have not made anything PNP so I cant really sound off much on the topic. When I am troubleshooting an effect, I usually disconnect the footswitch just to remove one variable.
Quote from: frequencycentral on June 16, 2012, 12:59:15 PM
Why should you not have 90o angles? Do the electrons bunch up in the corners?