Ultra Flanger distorts when manual is turned down!

Started by Carlos Best, June 27, 2012, 01:29:16 PM

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Carlos Best

Guys, I've just finished an UltraFlanger with the RG Keen layout.
I can only hear the ticking of the lfo but no flanging.
Already changed all the ICs and checked for solder joints.
I used the 2 leds & Si Diode configuration, without TR3

Anyone can post the correct voltages for the thing? I used the search function to no avail.

Here are mine

Supply voltage: 9.80 v regulated.

Controls maxed out

u1 tl072

1 5.63
2 5.63
3 5.59
4 0
5 7.94
6 7.29
7 9.02
8 9.80


u2 mn3007

1 9.80
2 0
3 5.58
4 0
5 0
6 4.59
7 6.77
8 6.77

u3 CD4049UBE

1  9.42
2  4.59
3  4.66
4  4.59
5  4.66
6  4.59
7  4.66
8  0
9  4.58
10 4.71
11 4.58
12 4.71
13 0
14 4.58
15 4.71
16 0


u4 HEF4046BP

1  0
2  4.66
3  4.58
4  4.58
5  0
6  1.96
7  1.94
8  0
9  2.01
10 0.87
11 0.21
12 7.18
13 0
14 9.42
15 0.19
16 9.42


u5 tl072

1 4.01 to 4.1
2 4.06
3 3.62 to 3.68
4 0
5 4.06
6 4.06
7 3.48
8 9.80

Thanks a lot!

Fender3D

MN3007's Pin2 should have clock signal (50KHx-1MHz).
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Scruffie

Or in other words Pin 2 & 6 of the 3007 should both have about half the supply voltage on them which means your clock (4046 I seem to remember?) probably isn't working.

Fender3D

U3's Pins 2-4-6 likely have a clock signal...
Check it arrives to MN's pin2
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Carlos Best

Thanks Guys!

Now i can hear the flanging effect

BUT when Regen is maxed out I have a high pitch squeal, it changes frequency depending wich position of the Odd/Even switch is

And when I turn down MANUAL, the effect starts to distort (in a non musical way :D ) and the guitar and the effect is lost.

Carlos Best

The Squeal is GOne!!

I changed the regen resistor from 100k to 220k (rev3 of John Hollis schems says 270k but that's what I had)

Now I have the problem of the Manual pot.

Anyone have a clue?

Fender3D

You definitely need TR3, 'cause a "carefully set bias" is always better than a "hopefully working bias" set with fixed value parts  :icon_wink:
When trimming, you'll notice optimal bias setting will vary if you change clock setting (and power supply also...)
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

MetalGuy

#7
The Ultra Flanger is a very strange beast. Never seen anything like it.
I still have the one I built many years ago and I can confirm that the Manual control works strange. Actually the useful range is from around 10 -11 o'clock. Also the LFO seems to sweep somewhat faster through one half of the wave.
I don't use this pedal often and only for one setting so I never bothered tweaking it further.

hannibal827

In my build, the Manual pot adds a bit of noise when I move the wiper towards that 39k resistor [R24].  It's just hiss, in time with the LFO sweep.  Is that what you mean by "distortion?"  I always just considered that a limitation of the circuit--this is a really minimal flanger, after all, and as MetalGuy said, it does seem to have a sweet spot.

At any rate the "Manual" control shouldn't have any effect on the dry signal.  That should come through regardless.  If you're losing that when you turn the Manual control down, you definitely have a problem.

Looking at the R.G. Keen layout, though, it'd be really easy to have a solder bridge somewhere along that trace from lug 1 of the Manual pot--the one that connects to R23, C9, and pin 9 of the CD4046.  If bad things are happening when you turn down the Manual control, that might be where the problem is.
Pedals built: Pulsar; Uglyface; Slow Gear; Tri-Vibe; Tremulus Lune; Blues Driver; Fender Pro Vibrato; Nyquist Aliaser; Ultra Flanger; Clone Theory; Ibanez FL-301; Echo Base; Electric Mistress (Deluxe); Boss CE-2; Gristleizer; Maestro Filter Sample/Hold.