Single pin molex type connector

[armdnrdy]

I would like to try making a modular build using molex type connectors for the offboard wiring.

I've seen that a few of you have accomplished that task already.

I can't seem to find a small single pin connector for those "odd man out" pads like when a board has seperated pot pads.

What would be the connector of choice?

[pappasmurfsharem]

I'm on my phone so I can't help it immensely, but when I was ding my psu sleeving work for my PC I just went straight to one of the houses mouths aka Molex.

Molex.com

Select connectors then choose your criteria

[stirfoo]

I've got a bunch of single header pins on my stripboard. I was looking for the female header housings like these (minus the wires of course):

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430

Where can you get these? I couldn't find them anywhere (including on the molex site) so I ordered a bunch of these:



I was going to just crimp the length of wire needed and heat-shrink the tip.

[pappasmurfsharem]

I've got a bunch of single header pins on my stripboard. I was looking for the female header housings like these (minus the wires of course):

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430

Where can you get these? I couldn't find them anywhere (including on the molex site) so I ordered a bunch of these:



I was going to just crimp the length of wire needed and heat-shrink the tip.

That is part of the Molex MINI-Fit Jr series.

It is the Female terminal.

The minifit JR housings arethe appropriate ones to fit.

Keyword of advice. You will "need" a minifit jr extrator tool. I say "need" because if you need to replace/reseat the terminal they are nearly impossible to get out without it. You can use a paperclip to remove but it takes quite a bit of finesse. Even with the appropriate tool.

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=minifit_jr&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction

On the shaft of the terminal there are two wings, one on each side. These are what hold the housing in place. It is recommend to use an F-Style crimp tool. This will cause the flaps on the back to "BITE" into the wire shield makes a much more solid connection, even without the use of solder. The typical fold style crimpers will work, but beware the wire "can" slip out, although this is general practice with PSU wire replacement repair in a stomp box it may not be that important.

However the MINIFIT JR terminals are probably too big for stompbox use. They are about a Centimeter or longer, You would probably want something more like the pins used in FAN HEADERS.


EDIT:

The connector referenced above is spec'd to be 14.7mm to be exact.

Something that would be more appropriate stompbox-wise would be Molex's KK Interconnection System.
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=kk&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction

These are the typical Fan Header size connectors. Imagine the 3 pin FAN connector in your PC. If you take a small flathead and push the silverpart down you can slide them out to see what size your are dealing with.


Although MOLEX has so many standards, I bet they have something even better suited for stompbox purposes.


EDIT2:

If you are planning on just using the female and male terminals without the housing you would still be looking at around 30mm in length,

I have many of both the main terminals above if you want a size comparison picture next to a 25cent Piece.

Either way browse the two sections I pasted above, molex should have links to distributors that carry the parts. Some of the parts have 30 different models for similar part. Eg, 30 of the same terminals made of different alloy, brass, plated. etc.

Mouser had most of the ones I needed for sleeving my PowerSupply in my gaming rig.

[smallbearelec]

I thought everyone knew already:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Categories?category=Plugs%2C+Jacks%2C+Fittings%3AMolex+Headers+and+Assemblies

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Categories?category=Enclosures%3AThe+Bare+Box+Platform+and+Accessories

https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/OhMyDarling/OhMyDarling.htm

but I guess I still need to be getting the word out!

Regards
SD

[pappasmurfsharem]

placeReading your post again I realize your were asking whuse similar pins to the KK Interconnection System I references above if you want to make your own.

eferences above if you want to make your own.

Edit*

Now the real secret to to decipher what molex series those smallbear connectors are part of ;-)

The C-grip sites looks like a good place to start

Look at the wire to board section

[CodeMonk]

I've got a bunch of single header pins on my stripboard. I was looking for the female header housings like these (minus the wires of course):

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430

Where can you get these? I couldn't find them anywhere (including on the molex site) so I ordered a bunch of these:



I was going to just crimp the length of wire needed and heat-shrink the tip.

If these are the larger ones (Like the same ones used on for the power supply connections on a desktop PC), I would not recommend these.
I used to work as a Computer Tech, and those bastards cause a lot of headaches. I've had to replace or tweak a ton of them because they came loose often.
Especially if you unplug them often.
The smaller gold plated ones though, were pretty reliable.

[armdnrdy]

I've got a bunch of single header pins on my stripboard. I was looking for the female header housings like these (minus the wires of course):

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8430

Where can you get these? I couldn't find them anywhere (including on the molex site) so I ordered a bunch of these:



I was going to just crimp the length of wire needed and heat-shrink the tip.

I found the single female header housings!

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1900

Now to find the correct female connector that will fit them and that will fit on a 2.54mm male pin header.


Update: They have the female connectors that fit the housings as well!
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1930

[stirfoo]

Yeah armdnrdy, that's what I was looking for, thanks. 53 cent each. Their crimp pins are cheaper than what I paid @ Jameco though.

CodeMonk, the Jameco crimp pins fit nice and tight on the .025 headers. This is just for a prototype right now. I'll probably just crimp and heat shrink them since I've got all that on hand. Once I get a real PCB made I'll be able to group the pins better and maybe use the locking Molex connectors.

[armdnrdy]

They are 2.3 cents each! 

They are sold in packs of 25!

[stirfoo]

Ohhhhh, I thought that was kind of high 

[smallbearelec]

Now the real secret to to decipher what molex series those smallbear connectors are part of ;-)

No secret: Molex SPOX series. The issue for most builders is that the crimping tool is horribly expensive. That's why I had pre-terminated leads done that fit the Bare Box platform. If I comission a larger enclosure, or if enough people ask, I'll get longer terminations done.

[pappasmurfsharem]

Now the real secret to to decipher what molex series those smallbear connectors are part of ;-)

No secret: Molex SPOX series. The issue for most builders is that the crimping tool is horribly expensive. That's why I had pre-terminated leads done that fit the Bare Box platform. If I comission a larger enclosure, or if enough people ask, I'll get longer terminations done.

This is the best F-Style crimp tool I can find, I bought it for my PC modding needs. Nothing below $100 performs the F-Style crimps aside from this.

It's about $60
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimping-tool-160-crimps.htm

The owner of the site Nils is a dream to work with.

[armdnrdy]

I "shopped" around, read reviews, and found a very reasonably priced ratcheting crimping tool that crimps both the wire barrel and the insulation barrel at the same time.

http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S

I am an Industrial electrical contractor who makes a living with tools. I have to say that I am entirely surprised by the quality of this crimper. The action is very precision with no slop. The crimps turn out perfect! (My first try. I snapped the wire off the crimp! I needed to adjust the setting on the side of the tool!)

[pappasmurfsharem]

I "shopped" around, read reviews, and found a very reasonably priced ratcheting crimping tool that crimps both the wire barrel and the insulation barrel at the same time.

/www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S

I am an Industrial electrical contractor who makes a living with tools. I have to say that I am entirely surprised by the quality of this crimper. The action is very precision with no slop. The crimps turn out perfect! (My first try. I snapped the wire off the crimp! I needed to adjust the setting on the side of the tool!)

Most crimpers designed for these types of terminal will crimp both wings. I've used the one you have above and other variants of the Chinese tools they definitely work but if you want a life long crimp.you need an F style crimper like the one I posted above. Granted the wires in a stomp box ding move much so saving a few bucks is not a bad idea

[armdnrdy]

Just so you know.... F style crimp and open barrel type are the same thing.

My crimping tool has the same dies as the one you posted.







F crimp


From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


F-crimp is a type of solderless electrical crimp connection. It is not related to the F connector common in RF equipment.

It is sometimes referred to as open-barrel, which is technically a more general term including crimp types such as Weather Pack and Metri Pack.

F-crimp is a more mechanically robust crimp connection compared to the common barrel-crimp type readily available at retail locations (Radio Shack, Home Depot, etc.). It also has an optional second crimp section that crimps to the insulation, providing strain relief. Because of these characteristics, automobiles use F-crimp almost exclusively. F-crimp was devised to eliminate the need for soldered connections - crimping can be preferred to soldering in mass production because it is easier to reproduce reliable connections.

The term F crimp was originally used coined by Tyco Electronics, however terminals of this style are currently manufactured by multiple companies. Crimpers are available from multiple sources: manufactures of the connectors typically offer industrial crimp devices for high volume production, and specialty hand tools companies such as Ideal and Paladin offer dies for hand crimpers. For instance, Paladin die #2033 is designed for open barrel / F-crimp connectors.

[pappasmurfsharem]

 ,Well blow me down.   ught the cooler guys crimper a  Few years ago, and returned it. It did overlap crimps which for my psu modding purposes was not useable.

That being said open barrel refers to the terminal type, F is the crimp type.

they are referred to as open barrel because you can't F crimp a closed barrel terminal

Edit: granted... F Crimps are the only crimps accepted in the Molex spec.

So I retract my statement save 40$

[armdnrdy]

Like I said,

I work with tools for a living and definately know the difference between crap and good quality. For my business, I own several different styles of crimping tools made by Klein and Greenlee that price out much higher than this tool. I would have to say that this tool is at least as good of quality as the above tools.

I had been looking at Molex type crimping tools costing up to $250.

I read reviews on how this crimper performed and the quality. I found nothing but good reviews.

This crimper makes perfect "M" shaped crimps. I am very suprised on the quality and performance for such a reasonable price.

One more thing: I am not a rep for this company! 

[pappasmurfsharem]

 "

Like I said,

I work with tools for a living and definately know the difference between crap and good quality.  ess, I own several different styles of crimping tools made by Klein and Greenlee that price out much higher than this tool. I would have to say that this tool is at least as good of quality as the above tools.

I had been looking at Molex type crimping tools costing up to $250.

I read reviews on how this crimper performed and the quality. I found nothing but good reviews.

This crimper makes perfect "M" shaped crimps. I am very suprised on the quality and performance for such a reasonable price.

One more thing: I am not a rep for this company! 

Like I said I agree. Even if it isn't the best quality and wears out "quicker" you can buy 5-6 before you buy a big name crimper.

I was under the impression it stilldid overlaps like in my experience with it.

So a good find indeed

[armdnrdy]

It might do overlaps with longer wing connectors. I'm using the shorter winged 2.54 connector pins that Tayda sells.

The connector pins that I ordered from Pololu for the single conductor connectors have offset insulation wings that slide across the tool die and fold around the insulation next to each other.

Looking at the die of this crimper, it looks like this will work for that type as well. We'll see!