Dallas Rangemaster Build Help!

[stratomaster15]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of building a Dallas Rangemaster, so I drew out a layout for it with the DIY Layout Creator (great program) and I was wondering if you guys could check it over for me, make sure I did it right!



Also, if you guys could offer me any other tips on the build that would be great! Like what sized box to use!

Thanks!

EDIT: Forgot the schematic I based it off. Here ya go! http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/DallasRM2.jpg

[phector2004]

haven't looked at the schematic, but i can tell you off the bat, you don't need a toggle switch for power

i mean you COULD do it, but it's easier to just make the input jack a stereo and wire it so when you put a mono plug into it, it closes the circuit. your circuit itself will true bypass with that DPDT and the power switch will just mean more drilling and wiring

also, i don't know how much of a newbie you are, but if you are, watch out for the electrolytic capacitors, as they have to be aligned the right direction. In the schematic, the curved side is negative, so make sure to orient it the right way (look up the polarity of your caps!)

lastly, i dont think this project needs a large box, but it's all up to you. i use 125-B boxes cause i find they're a comfortable size (tons of room for small projects). this could easily be done in a smaller one though (i plan to make one in a 1590A sometime in the near future), but if you're a newbie like me, the extra space won't hurt :p

Good luck!

[Philippe]

You might also consider building a Rangemaster on a terminal strip (aka PTP/point-to-point). It's a relatively  easy procedure. That's the way the original ones were built & the same manner in which the Beano Boost from Analogman is constructed.  www.analogman.com/beano.htm

Another article from R. Keen which covers 99.99% of the necessary info pertaining to Rangemasters.
www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/Rangemaster/drm.htm

[pontiacpete]

what is on the wiper of your gain pot?  Isn't the .01 suppose to be connected there?

pete

[chi_boy]

Looks like C4 is wrong.  I think it needs to go to the wiper of the pot.

[Masuto]

Hi guys..another newbie here.
Ok..i built this the way it is. But alas, no boost whatsoever.
I am gettin mixed up here:
-this layout uses different value resistors and caps than the others i have found on the net: why?
-whats this thing about c4 being wrong?! And .01 and c4?!
Please id be very grateful if you would correct the above layout.
The way it is now, from what i gather, it only works if i keep the footswitch down with my foot. As soon as i release it, no boost.
Also, which jack is in and which is out on this layout???
PLEASE HELP A NEWBIE..L
Ta.

[davent]

Hello,
If you built it as drawn, the pots wiper (center leg) isn't directly connected to anything in the circuit. The wiper should connect to the top of C4 and that should be the only connection to that end of C4. The bottom leg of the pot should be only connect to the collector of the PNP transistor. You'll need to check your transistor's datasheet  to determine which legs are which.
All the best,
dave

[thelonious]

-this layout uses different value resistors and caps than the others i have found on the net: why?

People tweak these things a lot to taste, and sometimes there were variations in the originals. The values here will probably give you good results as a starting point, but why not breadboard it, try different values, and let your ears decide? Also, definitely read that Geofex link that Philippe posted above. It's very informative.

-whats this thing about c4 being wrong?! And .01 and c4?!
Please id be very grateful if you would correct the above layout.

Something like this. Not verified, I just hacked it in photoshop. But there are plenty of verified layouts out there. I'd look at some others too.

The way it is now, from what i gather, it only works if i keep the footswitch down with my foot. As soon as i release it, no boost.

Is that happening on your build? It sounds like maybe you used a momentary switch instead of a normal latching DPDT switch.

Also, which jack is in and which is out on this layout???

Input on the right, and output on the left.

[Masuto]

You people rule. I went to bed with a zillion questions, i woke up this morning and got all the replies. This is not really my first build (i managed to get through a bastard mkii build...) but i consider myself a noob all the same. Thanks guys you made my day. Tomorrow i will see this through and come back with results.
My switch is a double throw not a momentary latch.. Maybe the trouble is due to the circuit not being correct. As i said, ill forward results.

[Electric Warrior]

-this layout uses different value resistors and caps than the others i have found on the net: why?

People tweak these things a lot to taste, and sometimes there were variations in the originals.

[/quote]

Right on. With two 25µFs and the 4k7 resistor, this one seems to be based on a vintage unit with a black glass OC44. Input cap should be 0.005 for these, though 

[Masuto]

After changing the circuit according to the above pictured layout, it works..and yes it was a batch of temporary switches i accidentally stumbled upon.
I used ac125 for this build but i'll try out different trannies and will report if anyones interested..
Cheers guys

[thelonious]

After changing the circuit according to the above pictured layout, it works..and yes it was a batch of temporary switches i accidentally stumbled upon.
I used ac125 for this build but i'll try out different trannies and will report if anyones interested..
Cheers guys

Cool, glad to hear it worked. I'd be interested in your thoughts on different trannies - I was thinking about building one of these soon, too.

[Masuto]

Input cap should be 0.005 for these, though 

Well.. I would like to try that.. Change the cap according to your suggestion.
Dont laugh now but...what is/where is the input cap?

[davent]

Input cap should be 0.005 for these, though 

Well.. I would like to try that.. Change the cap according to your suggestion.
Dont laugh now but...what is/where is the input cap?

Check out the schematic linked in... maybe it was the first post... the first step on this long endless journey awaits there. And unless you're trying to build an exact clone, it's value can be whatever you think gives you the best tone with your guitar and amp combo. You could put a couple different values on a switch, you could put in a blend control alá Joe Gagan's Easy Face, don't get hung up on the value, trust your ears, this is what breadboards are for. Have fun!
dave

[thelonious]

Input cap should be 0.005 for these, though  

Well.. I would like to try that.. Change the cap according to your suggestion.
Dont laugh now but...what is/where is the input cap?

It's more clearly labeled in the schematic linked to in first post like davent said, but in the image in this thread, it's C1, the .0068 cap. The input cap is usually the first cap the signal passes through after the input jack. It blocks external DC voltage from interfering with the circuit's function and also acts as a high pass filter, cutting out low frequencies. The original's .005 cap would make it just a little more of a treble boost than this version would be. If you wanted to experiment, .0047 caps are easier to find, and the difference between that and .005 is negligible since most caps have +/- 20% tolerances anyway.

[Masuto]

  always very helpful. thanks. BUT before i change the input cap, i have to let you know that the abovementioned corrected layout works a beauty with a range of transistors i have randomly put in. as promised, next wednesday i booked some studio time to record the different trannies in action. so expect this layout put through a proper test. i am a total noobhead and have a vague idea on my trannies real hfe but going by ear seems to work for me!