Am i even close? "Massive Newb Alert"

Started by nialldoran91, July 18, 2013, 09:39:10 AM

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nialldoran91

hey guys been lurking here for a while and stopped thinking about building, only now i have more time patience to learn, i have a few projects im interested in building and i was wondering if you could help with something, i want to build a little boost for a spring reverb tank at the studio where i work, so i found a schematic publicly available from Hilltree Productions, im new to reading schematics and will be building on vero, so i tried to transcribe the schematic to vero,

the main thing that weirds me out when looking at stuff is the assumed stuff by knowledable builders like grounds, power, ins and outs so i put everything in this to give me clarity, i know it could be closer and neater but i need to understand it before i think about that, here is the schematic and my layout,

am i even close? please be kind :icon_mrgreen:
top drawing here


heres my version

Kearns892

Hey, it looks like the schematic you linked to isn't working. Can you fix the link?


R.G.

If I understand you right, you're looking for verification that you have the hookup right.

In the top drawing, yes, ground is the line running across the bottom of the circuit. It's common to the input, power supply, and output as drawn. That is correct.

Input comes in on the left as shown; output from C2 is correct.  Power coming in as shown is also correct.

The only problem I see with the schematic is that the 9-12V supply is shown with the schematic for DC voltage with AC dropouts superimposed. The circuit will make BAD hum/noise if that power supply has any ripple on it. It needs to be pure, smooth DC. It may be that you used that symbol because you're new at this.

There will be various differences in the actual performance of the circuit, depending on a number of things, so even though the schematic is OK, the values of the components may need to be changed to get the function you want.

There is a misconception that creeps in for all beginners. The problem with all circuits like this is that there are invisible components; in this case, the signal source that drives the circuit and the load the output goes to. These will always change how well the circuit works in practice. It's something you just have to remember - once the central circuit is done right, you still have to worry about what connects to it.

But you're off to a good start.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

Kesh

On RG's point, about having to worry about what the circuit is connected to.

C2's value, 100n, is a little low and will roll off the bass if your output is connected to a typical line level input. I don't know what your reverb's input is like though, and some bass roll-off may be what you want. If this roll-off is a problem and you want a flatter frequency response then it is easily fixed by replacing the 100n with a higher value cap like 1u (same as 1000n). Metallised polyester capacitors, typical in this sort of circuit, are available up to 1u in a small package.

nialldoran91

#5
yes i should have made it more clear that i'm looking to see if my vero layout is accurate to the schematic shown which i did not design,

thanks, both great feedback and advice, i understand what you both mean by the 100n cap but i copied the schematic exactly from an online source so i haven't even thought about it at this stage, but it is good to know for future when i actually build this as i probably would've been scratching my head,

@R.G. is the problem symbol the one in the hand drawn picture? i didn't even realize it wasn't pure DC so i just put in a battery clip, was this the right thing to do? even if it was through negligence  :icon_lol:

EDIT; it's probably also worth asking if i should've put a cut between the cap terminals as i have them running horizontal on the track, or does it not matter as they are film caps and not polarized

Niall

smallbearelec

Hi--

I am working on an "Advice For Beginners" article for my site, and you have made me add to one of the items. I'm quite serious when I say: "Thanks!" I was where you are, still don't know nearly as much as some of the people who replied to you, but can offer some useful perspective.

I don't suggest doing as a first build a soldered version of something from a schematic. Often, the schematic will not include items that you need for your particular purpose, because it's assumed that you will know a lot of basics. Also, while the component values may be right within the context of the idea in the schem, they may need be right for your needs, or this particular circuit "snippet" may not be exactly right for your purpose.

If you want to pursue a preamp for a spring reverb (though I think this is a little higher on the food chain than you want to take a bite of), take a look at a completed design for one that's known to work; there are vetted designs at Tonepad and General Guitar Gadgets among other places. Snip out the preamp section, Breadboard It and make it work. Start now learning to use software tools like DIY Layout Creator for doing layouts and schematics. It will pay off.

Have fun, and stay in touch with this board!

nialldoran91

thanks for the advice smallbear, really appreciate the welcome and the words, i'll definitely look up some verifyied schems for this, and even if i don't get to it now at my level it'll be done at some stage as i have a reverb tank sitting around that would make for a cool project, glad to have helped in some small way, definitely going to be more attentive to this board as its a wealth of information,  :icon_lol:

Hemmel

Quote from: nialldoran91 on July 18, 2013, 11:28:37 AM

EDIT; it's probably also worth asking if i should've put a cut between the cap terminals as i have them running horizontal on the track, or does it not matter as they are film caps and not polarized

Yes you should put a cut under the caps if they're horizontal on the track. If not, it's basically as if there's no cap at all. The signal will just bypass the cap and continue on its way.
Bââââ.

nialldoran91

brilliant hemmel thanks, i was just thinking about it as i had looked at a few vero layouts after mine and majority of caps are crossing tracks not running along them, it got me thinking