Best Spray-On Finish for Pedals?

[davent]

Back to m-theory on this, have you found the Rustoleum auto primer performs better the spray can self-etching?

I think i came across 2-part etching(?) primer in a Marine supply store but it was very expensive so didn't persue that avenue.

Anyone tried the envirotex or similar epoxy as the primer coat on a bare enclosure? I've used appliance spray can epoxy on a few things as the primer coat and it's held up real well.

[chi_boy]

I've seen pictures in the photo thread that showed envirotex on boxes with bare metal sides, FWIW. 

Anyone know if envirotex can be used over powder coat?

[The French connection]

I've seen pictures in the photo thread that showed envirotex on boxes with bare metal sides, FWIW. 

Anyone know if envirotex can be used over powder coat?

Absolutly! Envirotex on Powder coat box from http://www.pedalenclosures.com/

[davent]

The envirotex looks great. Anyone using it to achieve a nice matt finish as opposed to the glossy, glassy shine?

Neat little tutorial here on enviritex pedal finishing here. http://juansolo.demon.co.uk/stompage/finishing.html

[m-theory]

You can make the cleared finish into a matte finish by carefully wet sanding when cured, with 1500 or smaller grade wet sandpaper.  Be very careful with edges and corners, because you'll sand through VERY easily.  You just want to knock down the gloss, so the finer the paper, the better, and the less aggressive you are with it, the better.  It works beautifully, though. 



I think what may wind up being semi-successful in keeping the clear from clogging the screw holes would be to get the correct thread screws from the hardware store, that can be used as "sacrificial lambs," to be replaced after clear is set with the actual hardware that comes with the box.  I don't know of anything that you could use to coat those areas, to prevent the clear from adhering.  This stuff is basically glue, and it flows freely when newly mixed.  It's not the holy grail, by any means, but it is the most durable, most glossy finish I've come across, short of auto refinish clearcoat, which, again, is not only impractical for most of us to seek out, but also extremely costly and dangerous to spray out of a booth.  If you've got a buddy who owns a body shop, work out a deal with him, if you can, to color and clear your boxes when cars are being painted/cleared.  Your color selections would be limited to whatever was being sprayed at the time, but a lot of today's car colors are very striking, and the products that are used in the modern refinish world are stellar.  True self-etching primers, catalyzed primers and sealers, and even catalyzed basecoats for bullet-proof color to go along with the catalyzed clear coats.  That said, we're not driving these pedals down the highway, so spraying $100 worth of catalyzed products on the boxes really doesn't make a whole lot of sense overall. 

Someone asked about whether or not I feel that the Rustoleum auto primer/surfacer can replace the aerosol "self-etch" primers.  Based upon what I've seen, I was say so, although I have to admit that I get warm fuzzies spraying the etch primer on, regardless.  I've found that there are two sizes of boxes I've come across that just flat out do NOT do well with regard to adhesion, regardless of what spray can product you use as substrate.  1590DD and 1790 (I believe...the tall, larger version of a 1590BB)...these seem to be a different alloy than the other boxes that I've used, and no matter what I've tried for product and no matter what techniques in play, the adhesion is never as strong as with other box sizes.  At first, I thought it was some sort of chemical that they used as a mold release, that was impregnating into the metal, but I've tried multiple stages of cleaning and sanding, and still get the same iffy results.  These would be great sizes to order powder-coated, or find a buddy with a buddy shop who's wiling to shoot them with real self-etch primer.  Otherwise, just be aware that these particular boxes do NOT play real well with the finish products that we use. 

[davent]

Thanks 'm', i would still try wrapping the sacrifcial screws with plumbers Teflon tape to see whether that would help with screw release  after epoxy set.

dave

[peterc]

What about Pres Stick or Blu Tak to keep the clear out of the holes?

[vigilante397]

So I still haven't gotten around to trying out the Envirotex, but I did manage to get a good result with Rustoleum. I used self-etching primer in thin coats, baked in between. I sanded after the last coat of primer then painted in thin coats, baking in between. It's giving me a nice hard finish, and I plan to let it dry overnight then waterslide my artwork onto it before I clearcoat, so I'll probably have it completely done Thursday and I will post pictures

[Perrow]

I'm wondering if blue tack could be used to protect the screw holes?

I have to look into epoxy clear coats, sounds like the way to go.

[tubegeek]

I'm getting the sense that a shaved-down chopstick - which would be my go-to choice for something to jam into a 6/32 screw hole to keep it clear - would get badly stuck in this stuff?

[Mustachio]

I have a feeling blue-tak would do no good and just be stuck in the hole/epoxy. Need something a bit more rigid. I've used bamboo kabob skewers  the pointy end goes in the hole no problem.

But most the time I don't bother and ill just use a dixie cup and some tape to raise the box up off my work surface(usually cardboard on top of a lazy Susan).

I'll try to keep and eye on it and get drips off with another skewer or chop stick every 10 minutes or so while it sets. And at the end ill use an exacto and a small screw driver to get anything out of the holes if any gets in. Usually I can keep 3 out or 4 holes clear just by keeping up with the drips.

When your trimming the bottom of the box from drips it helps to cut into the box instead of away, so you don't pull the epoxy away from the sides.

Also fwiw a heat gun can be nice with pour-on takes out the bubbles , but it will make the epoxy a bit thinner when its hot so don't hit it to long with heat. If you watch some videos of people using pour-on over wood table tops etc they use a scraper tool with serrated edge (big triangles like fabric sheers) that leave rows in the epoxy and since its self leveling it *should* level out and give you a smooth surface. But its really something to play with to get right.

If you get imperfections you cant live with you can always try to sand or fix parts up and then re-pour a second coat its pretty forgiving.

[Perrow]

Any problems with water slides?

[Mustachio]

Works great with waterslides, It hides the edges very well.

While back I had the idea of doing a waterslide on white box then epoxy, then another waterslide , then another pour of epoxy . This would be to Separate them and design graphics in a multi layer style to give a raised effect or separated screen print style. I'd Imagine if you messed with it good might get a slight 3d effect.

Also you could just pour on over a sheet of sticker paper then after its cured a bit cut out the shapes and have a well protected sticker . Could be a neat mixed medium

[The French connection]

I use electrical tape to cover the hole and apply the resin on the cover and the box separatly... and I had no problem at all! I cut the excess after removing the tape. Hey engineers, you've always done too complicated! 

[moosapotamus]

RE: thinning envirotex for brushing or spraying...

Seems like guys who make fishing lures have a lot of experience using envirotex - Etex.
I searched up these two discussions on the subject:

http://www.stripersonline.com/t/677074/thinning-envirotex-w-acetone

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/23681-airbrush-envirotex-lite/

The options appear to be acetone, mineral spirits and/or xylene.

I don't have any hands-on experience with Etex, yet. But I definitely want to give it a try. Since you apparently only need a very thin coat for effective protection, it seems like you could come up with a way to thin it and brush it on so that you don't have to deal with so much dripping and over usage.

~ Charlie

[Jdansti]

I did an Etex pour last night. After the pour I realized that the plastic container I used for support underneath was being glued the the underside of the box. I decided to just leave it and cut it out after the epoxy cures. It's still curing, so I'll probably work on it tomorrow.