Cutting Vero and Perf Board- I cant do it!

Started by claytushaywood, March 04, 2012, 09:25:47 PM

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bluebunny

Quote from: me
Yeah, seen some vendors selling exactly that - specifically for cutting up PCB stock.

I think I'll withdraw this daft suggestion, Rob.  Just seen the price of PCB shears at Rapid.  Hundreds of quids...   :o
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

stallik

Broke my last hacksaw blade so in desperation used a 2 inch masonry chisel and a club hammer. One big hit and the board parted but spent the next half hour searching for the good bit which had shot across the garage and hidden itself in all the rubbish. Nice cut though
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. Albert Einstein

deadastronaut

^ +1 for style though...

@marc: yeah pricey as ..... :icon_eek:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
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bluebunny

Mmm.  Replacement blade = £135.   :o   Just don't get Kevin to whack it with his club hammer!   :icon_wink:

(BTW, @Kevin: YouTube link??   ;D )
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

deadastronaut

£135...wtf..:icon_eek:

even the pcb guillotines are a joke price wise too...

i'll bid on my little table saw i think...sod it.

cutting the board is the only part of diy i despise...so anything that helps to cut a few boards easily i'm up for... 8)
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

deadastronaut

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Jdansti

I just tried the score and snap technique and it worked pretty well.
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R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

bwanasonic

A $10 pair of tin snips that you can get at any well equipped hardware store will do a good job.

MrStab

i just use a stanley/utility knife and cut all the way through vero in a few cuts. i used so score & snap, but i found that could be problematic sometimes, with the copper strips tearing in unwanted ways. i find it much easier to cut from the top (non-copper) side. i press down hard with my index finger as close to the blade as safely possible, so i'm applying force but staying in control. whenever i screw up, it's because i rushed it. i prefer not to sand the edges, and just lightly pick away any imperfections with my fingers, but sanding has been okay the few times i've tried it. a fresh blade can help a lot. i always alter layouts so there's a bit more leeway - i don't like having all the offboard wiring in the very last holes from the edge and it gives me extra peace of mind when cutting.

i've never really given much thought to how others go about this - it's interesting to hear everyone else's approach.
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Electronics manufacturer.

Perrow

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deadastronaut

#70
^he's not English he's from Liverpool... ;D



( regardless of title thread, i'm talking about PCB FR4 board cutting.)

the snips are probably ok for small boards , but i want to cut A4 widths/lengths, i would think it would crack halfway through using those...


there is a definite market for a simple and inexpensive tool for cutting pcb FR4 easily, and precisely, with no mess/dust....ive done a fair bit of research, and everything ive come across

that is for ''pcb cutting'' is ludicrously  pricey...... :icon_eek:...and i mean ludicrous..

i spoke with a guy who tried the minicraft table saw and he said it was useless, not enough power etc...so that's out now....hmmmm....


i know i would slip and cut my hands to ribbons trying this method....and then i wouldn't be able to play...kinda defeats the object really.. ::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVegtCh_tu0


https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

slacker

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBkPX_QhRI0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The last method he shows here looks pretty good for large pieces. Easy enough to knock something up that would do the same job using some angle iron and a few nuts and bolts.
If you're worried about slicing yourself up get down your local diy store and get some chainmail gloves :D

garcho

OSH Park, or similar. Just sayin'.  ;)

When I feel lazy and I'm about to make a big mess, I often just prop the hose from my shop vac next to the source of the mess and turn it on and leave it on until I'm done. For instance, I score F4 with a utility knife next to the shop vac input and all the toxic dust flies in the vacuum immediately. Then I snap it in the vice, easy. Then I sand the edges down, again, next to the vacuum. It works for patching walls, sanding small pieces, drilling aluminum, etc. It's a loud waste of electricity, that's all. But I got ear plugs and I'm wasting electricity all the damn time anyway...
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"...and weird on top!"

Ice-9

I no longer use Vero or Perf, but I remember I used to just run a Stanley knife along and over the holes and on both sides of the board then just snap it. I haven't read the whole thread here so not sure if anyone else has suggested suggested method.
www.stanleyfx.co.uk

Sanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting the same result. Mick Taylor

Please at least have 1 forum post before sending me a PM demanding something.

deadastronaut

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//