Etching hints from veterans?

Started by italianguy63, February 10, 2014, 07:09:11 AM

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tranceracer

This thread mentioned good results w/ HP Premium Presentation Paper 120g.  I bought some but haven't had a chance to use it yet.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104307.0

I've also used waxed paper backing from laser printer avery stickers.  You may find the presentation paper to be less finicky than waxed sticker backing paper.

italianguy63

Thanks for that!  I was looking for that, but could not find it.

I am using the Kodak paper.  It covers well and sticks well-- but the plasticy backing is a little tough.  I have learned to do this:  Soak for a little while, then try to pull the paper off-- you can get about 50% of the depth of it.  This is enough to get the plastic film off-- then resoak.  Once the remaining paper gets saturated with water, you can "scrape?" the paper off by "rolling" it off by rubbing you thumb on it.  It will leave a hazy image (still glue on the toner?).  Finally, I use a kitchen dish scrubbie with the scotchpad on it to LIGHTLY clean up the areas where the mask voids are.  You can tell when you do enough because the area will change from whiteish grey to black.  You have to do it once to understand.
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

deadastronaut

Try peeling it off while the box is still pretty warm......i never have to soak and scrub..

it comes off in one pice, no residue.
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

italianguy63

OK!  I've been letting it cool first..   :icon_confused:
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

tubegeek

I was pretty happy with my 120g HP presentation paper transfer on my most recent PCB etch.
Don't double-count me though - I was part of the other thread mentioned above too.
"The first four times, we figured it was an isolated incident." - Angry Pete

"(Chassis is not a magic garbage dump.)" - PRR

italianguy63

Thanks, I'm going to try some of the cheaper HP paper.  I'm also going to try some of the expensive stuff that didn't work again.  I am going to try to peel it while still warm.  I hate that I have 50 sheets of it I will never use now!  MC
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

selfdestroyer

Here is a tutorial I put together that may help.. it works for me.
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035

italianguy63

Thanks SD--

Did another this past weekend.  Went to 1:1:1  acid/water/H2O2.. it slowed down the reaction enough to make it more manageable.  Worked hard to get good surface prep, and to paint stick in all of the making.  I still "overcooked" slightly, but got good results.  A very deep etch with just some pitting around the small detail.  Most of it sanded out.  I am afraid my design has some issues with the small lettering making it hard to get both a clean AND deep etch.  In all I got about a 9 out of 10.  Good enough I am going to use it.  This is just a learning experience anyway!  And, the pedal in question is for me anyway-- my DynaComp is near completion now.

MC
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

italianguy63

Rob-- tried peeling the Kodak paper while still hot.  No change.  Still had to soak it and scrub it.  I must have different paper.  I did order some of the HP paper to try-- I will be doing a Klon enclosure soon.  Working up the artwork now..
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad