Waterslide decals crack

[Rob Strand]

Could the issue be the toner or the decal paper rather than the lacquer? The toner is basically plastic, and the decal paper shrinking or expanding even slightly in water could cause that to crack or distort.

I've had issues with the old "rub on" lettering shriveling with some types of clear coatings.  There can definitely be compatibility problems with plastics.

[rankot]

I've only ever ran into issues with B+W toner decals once, and it seemed.to be down to the paper.

I have had issues though with cracking on inkjet decals quite a bit and what worked for me seems to be contrary to the other advice here. More coats, longer drying time. Lately I'm at 4 mist coats and then a 5th slightly heavier coat, then two or three days to dry before I dip that thing in water.

Could the issue be the toner or the decal paper rather than the lacquer? The toner is basically plastic, and the decal paper shrinking or expanding even slightly in water could cause that to crack or distort.

I have cracking with ink jet decals, so it is just the water soluble ink, thus need to protect it with a coating. It's no plastic, like on laser. However, I'd try with your advice to coat few times lightly and let it dry for few days. Thanks a lot!!!

[anotherjim]

You might try to find a barrier coating that will be gentle on the print. It is possible to spray water diluted white PVA glue using any generic spray bottle. It will dry clear.

[slashandburn]

I've only ever ran into issues with B+W toner decals once, and it seemed.to be down to the paper.

I have had issues though with cracking on inkjet decals quite a bit and what worked for me seems to be contrary to the other advice here. More coats, longer drying time. Lately I'm at 4 mist coats and then a 5th slightly heavier coat, then two or three days to dry before I dip that thing in water.

Could the issue be the toner or the decal paper rather than the lacquer? The toner is basically plastic, and the decal paper shrinking or expanding even slightly in water could cause that to crack or distort.

I have cracking with ink jet decals, so it is just the water soluble ink, thus need to protect it with a coating. It's no plastic, like on laser. However, I'd try with your advice to coat few times lightly and let it dry for few days. Thanks a lot!!!

Please dont think I'm any kind of expert with these things, I just work on the idea that if anything ever goes wrong with clear lacquer it probably either not sealed properly or hadn't completely cured.

That said a while ago I had some trouble with a dodgy batch waterslide decal paper some years ago. I forget the details but someone on here suggested perhaps the paper had been stored in damp conditions. I tried to "dry" the individual sheets by hanging them near a dehumidifier overnight and then blasting them with a hairdryer before attempting to print and the results were significantly better than previous attempts but in the end I think I just gave up and found a different brand paper.

I absolutely hate having to switch brands of paper or paint. Sometimes you just get a bad batch and other times companies change their formula or packaging without saying anything and we're all just left to adapt.

[slashandburn]

You might try to find a barrier coating that will be gentle on the print. It is possible to spray water diluted white PVA glue using any generic spray bottle. It will dry clear.

My only issue with that is after the decal is applied (assuming this is a stompbox graphic) you would want another protective layer so the graphic is between the enclosure and whatever it has been applied too.

Hope it don't sound like I'm being an arse here but thinned PVA wouldn't be my first choice for a final finish for something that gets stood on and kicked a lot.

I'm probably being dumb, I guess if acrylic lacquer can take to toner its not crazy to expect it to take to PVA, given the A stands for acrylate.

[anotherjim]

That's why I used the term "barrier" coating. A barrier coat is inert and goes between two incompatible things to stop them from fighting. You would still apply a protective topcoat.