Making a simple mute switch. A light switch should work, right?

[essunset]

If I'm not mistaken a standard light switch is just a latching SPST switch. It should be as simple as wiring the positive terminal from the input jack to the other positive terminal on the other 1/4" jack, then with the negative wires, wire them to the terminals on the light switch, and of course the ground has a socket on the light switch as well.

Now this should all work out in theory, I guess everything works out in theory. But is it really that simple or am I missing anything?

I want to do this because I don't want to move the tuner to the end of my pedal board, and I have a delay pedal with alot of repeats so if I hit a bad note, or something devastating happens I can simply flick the light switch with my foot and my guitar is OVER.

Anyways this is my first build and I'm starting small.
Thanks in advance!!

[PRR]

Yes, this will work.

Possible problem: light switches are alloyed for BIG current. The contacts tarnish (insulating oxide), but the surges burn-off the tarnish. When used on small current, the tarnish never gets zapped away. Eventually the switch never "closes" (conducts the small current). It acts "OFF". In your case, shorting-out a signal, "off" means some or all the signal gets through.

When I used 6 Amp heavy-duty toggles for ~~0.020 Amp network signals, about every 3 years I'd get a call that the network was "down", and replacing the switch cured it.

It is possible that light switches also have a self-wiping action, so a few snap-snaps might burnish off enough tarnish to "fix" it. For a while.

And yes you can get light switches for $0.19, a lot less than most alternatives.

But do you need these hassles while you are trying to entertain a Paying Crowd?

Other factor: guitar-level signals are weak. A large switch without shielding can pick-up a lot of buzz and crap from thin air (actually from all the 120V wires in the room). You'll want a metal box without much opening, and a metal switch-plate.

[essunset]

Yaaay! It worked!!  




I haven't got a soldering gun (yet). So for now the wires are just looped around the screws in the light switch. Which brings up another problem I had in the build phase. After I mounted the light switch its self into the case, I didn't have enough room to fit a screw driver into the screws to secure down the wires. So as for now they are just looped around as well.

Now lets say I wanted to wire an LED into the circuit so that when the circuit is off the LED is illuminated, or the other way around for that matter. How would I do that? Without using a DPST switch.
Sorry for the massive Image btw

[PRR]

> didn't have enough room to fit a screw driver into the screws to secure down the wires.

Same as in house-wiring. Screw the wires *then* put the switch in the box.

> wire an LED ...Without using a DPST switch.

Some things just need multiple pole switches (or OVER-complicated solutions).

Home Depot and others have wall-type double-pole switches. They will probably be Heavy Duty and more like $12 than 19 cents. Compact stage-worthy switches can be ordered on-line from many many vendors.

I hope you don't play in public with those joints. They are bound to loosen-up.

You made some investment in your playing (instrument, studying, picks and strings). Invest in your electrical needs too.

[essunset]

I hope you don't play in public with those joints. They are bound to loosen-up.

I play with this rig twice a week every week. Ahahahahaha!!

[Buzz]

I hope you don't play in public with those joints. They are bound to loosen-up.

I play with this rig twice a week every week. Ahahahahaha!!

Lady luck smiles upon you. For now.

Unfortunately Murphies law is still in action. It'll probably crap out when you're doing something cool. In front of a chick you're trying to impress.