share your wiring!

[tacobender]

Ya see I put too many grounds on my input, I'm gona have to try it your way. My problem is I can't rework a layout for Jack, and my jacks are on the side, and the layouts at the top. So I need to rework the layout, but this is only my third build. And breadboarding, is well lets say not for me. So i figure I'll build the circuit with the connections all small copper clips, then I can rework it until I get it right. ...what do you use to drill your enclosures?

[smallbearelec]

breadboarding, is well lets say not for me...what do you use to drill your enclosures?

Why no breadboarding? Have you considered building something like an IdeaBox?

http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/IdeaBoxAndBoard/IdeaBox.htm

If you are working with a schem that has been thoroughly vetted, I agree that it's possible to go directly to layout. But if there is the smallest possibility that the circuit will need to be tweaked, breadboarding first is the way to go. I also emphasize that the breadboard layout has little or nothing to do with the design on perf or Vero; they are different media, and breadboard layout should not control positioning on the soldered board.

What Does control placement on the board is the mechanical layout of off-board components in the enclosure. You have clearly figured that out, and you have built some skill with DIYLC...good show! I find the process of place-and-try easier and more logical with pad-per-hole perf rather than Vero, but this may just reflect my long experience with the former.

Regards
SD

[Keppy]

Ya see I put too many grounds on my input, I'm gona have to try it your way. My problem is...

No problem. Use one wire to connect the two pot ground lugs together. Use one other wire to connect ONE of those ground lugs to any open hole on your board in the ground row (1 above the bottom row). Use one wire to connect that row to your input jack sleeve (this is the board ground on your layout). The only other wire attached to either jack sleeve should be the ground wire from the footswitch (the sleeves are connected to each other through the metal enclosure and need no wire between them). This should be the simplest, tidiest way to wire your grounds.

There are nuances to grounding, which you can find in many posts by R.G., but your third build ever is probably not the time to worry about it IMO. Just connect all the ground points neatly with as few wires as possible.

It's only your ground scheme that has improvements to be made in the connections themselves. As far as general wiring neatness, listen to anyone in this thread besides me.

what do you use to drill your enclosures?

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/drill-unibit-1/

I think I got mine from Smallbear, but I've seen these at Home Depot too. I drill a 1/16" pilot hole and then drill out to size with the Unibit, all with a basic cordless drill.

[MrStab]

Board-mounted pots: much less wiring, far fewer homicial rampages. I keep the jacks and switch offboard to minimise failure and to allow easier repairs, though.

I send all my grounds to one common point, bolted to the enclosure with a wire crimp, flanged nut and tooth washer. The same bolt adds extra support for the PCB. If the nut were to somehow come loose, all the grounds are still twisted together and you'd only lose the RF rejection from the enclosure. I feel this scheme is both reliable and rules out problems with various circuit nuances before they begin.

[LightSoundGeometry]

thats actually not a bad price for the unibit. I think I paid 35 for mine but its a triumph bit.

[GGBB]

I use a template wiring harness as Dave does.

Aesthetically at least, pedal wiring does not get much better than John's work IMO. Always a feast for the eyes.

(Not that Dave's work isn't pretty awesome too.)