Big Muff Triangle 72' w/ Diode Clipper Switch & BYOC Tone Mods - Layout

[Neta]

Hey guys,

I've just finished the Vero layout for this custom Big Muff, tell me what you think.
I've used the BYOC schematics.

Thanks.

[duck_arse]

check your datasheet for the bc239c pinouts ......

[Neta]

Absolutely correct, thanks!
Fixed it!

Does everything look alright now?
This is my first vero so there's a good chance for errors.

Thanks again

[duck_arse]

nothing sticks out, but I'm not really trying ......

about yr layout diagram, and me being a bit picky (and a little confused, working without yr circuit diagram visible): naming the pins on S1 to and from a and b is confusing. as drawn, add some more colour to the connections, instead of blue and blue, green and green. or learn the correct naming convention, and apply that. as in N/C-A, C-A and N/C-B and C-B (or n/o if applicable, it will shown on yr circuit dia).

how big a box do you have for the putting of this board? seeing as you are using a sub-board for the other, why not collect up all the junk associated w/ that S1, and put that on another small board mounting on the switch pins? you could shift those diodes and their cap, and free that entire corner of the board. again, look the circuit diagram. (same goes for the tone pot, and a good way to use little bits 'a vero.)

and those traces like b and k, with something at one end always annoy me, taking up so much space. make yr track cuts under other parts and closer to "the action" (row 9 for example). then you'll find heaps of places you can double back and turn sideways and utilise more of yr board. and then you just cut off all the extra and use smaller boxes.

but it is your layout, in the end.

[Neta]

These are great ideas!

I'll change it very soon.
Can you explain how exactly does the correct naming convention works? What's N?

And the problem is the schematic I used doesn't have the 2pdt switch.
Anyway, it's here: http://byocelectronics.com/beaverinstructions.pdf
Page 27, the Triangle version.

Thanks for all the help!! I really appreciate it.

[duck_arse]

draw your switch, a single pole, double throw. on the left, we'll draw the common (the pole, the part that flys between the contacts), call that common. on the other side, the two connections, the "throws". I always put a little arrow head on my commons, and it is pointing to one or other of the throws (except for a centre off switch, in which case it points straight ahead at an empty circle). which of your throws is drawn connected? it is always the "normally closed", because you have to draw it somehow, and we need a good name for it.

so, now name the other throw, the one that is normally drawn as open.

switching problems always become much clearer if you just put the doodle to the paper, follow the line from where it connects and where it doesn't. and make sure to draw your double pole switches with both commons pointing one way, both up, both down, both left, etc, doesn't matter. and add a linking dotted line between, so we can see the conventions at work.

27 pages? not for me thanks, harry! just find a copy of a muff circuit, feed it into your favourite image mangler, and add the switch. or mangle a space into the image file, print it, and draw the switch in. or learn eagle. ALWAYS draw the circuit.

your board symmetry about the 9V line is a good start. as an exercise, imagine the board layout symmetric about a ground trace instead. it may prove a "neta" layout.