Tri-Vibe switch popping or wiring problem? - help please!

[2jive]

Hi,

I have just built a ROG Tri-Vibe on a TH custom pcb. The effect works perfectly. My problem is that Th custom instructions are pretty few I can't find a diagram for wiring up jacks, 3pdt switch and PS (not using a battery.) I faked it by looking around at different builds and info on wiring 3pdts but I am doing something wrong I think. There are 5 terminals on pcb: 9v+ & grd : in, out, & grd1.

If I wire the neg wire from 9v PS socket to the input jack grd terminal & then wire grd terminal of output jack to center pin (5) on switch, and then pin 4 to grd1 - I get a very loud pop when I turn on pedal. Also actual effect is delayed a bit and comes in with an audible wump.

If I run a jumper from grd beside 9v+ to output grd (or enclosure) there is no switch pop (very quiet) but the indicator LED (5mm clear w/red light) is always on. The switch operates normally and the effect can be engaged and bypassed ; there is no pop and no ramp up of effect. I would just leave it that way but I must be missing something.

I have read several posts about draw down resistors, leds etc - but this is frustrating cause it works perfectly except the light constantly indicates LFO speed even when pedal is off. I can mess around with it but just though I'd ask.

I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous - should be able to figure this out.  Ah well..... Here is photo (getting uglier by the minute);

Not sure if photo is getting through.

[duck_arse]

hello, 2jive.

your pics isn't getting through, it seems to still be on your harddrive. you first need to find an upload/hosting site (hint: imgur) and post yr pic there. they'll provide you with a "link for forums" or some such garble. you simply copy that link addy, clikk the "image" button above the reply box, and paste the link in the tags.

then we can see.

[2jive]

thanks for info. Here is (new) pic:

[2jive]

I just rewired pedal using this diagram;   I had high hopes but it made absolutely no difference.

The 2 wires unconnected in photo are grounds. When I connect pin 4 to either board ground (they are the same right?) I still get the loud pop and delayed onset of effect. Obviously when I connect the other ground I am just bypassing the switch - the light is always on cause the effect is always on. When I hit the switch the true bypass kicks in and so no effect is heard (again obviously.) The input to board is wired to ground , but that doesn't effect led apparently.

This demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhHyv4KA4ZE(at 7 seconds) is what I thought I would be getting! None of my other pedals (including modulation) pop like this build. And the delayed ramp up to effect is pronounced (and unusable.) 

At C10 I used a different type of cap . I have some 4n7 caps of the same grey box film type, but they were measuring high (5.15nf) and I thought I'd use the brown Panasonic cap where I could at edge of board. Also C7 is supposed to be a 1n5, but my meter said it's 1n8 (which is 20% high.) The pop and ramp up does some like some weird cap discharge(?) I could try to change some components. Also Led is clear with a red light in it, rather than the standard 5mm red plastic ones I got with all my kits. The Clear ones do look spiffy, but maybe that is the problem......

Thanks for taking a look.   2jive

[DrAlx]

The problem is that things have been wired so that the switch is turning the power to the circuit on/off.
The circuit smooths the supply (using the large capacitor in the picture)
and when you switch things on, it takes time for that capacitor to charge up to the voltage needed by the circuit.
That's why you get the delayed effect at switch on. 

The only way to avoid that is to make sure the circuit always has power.
To prevent the LED from being on all the time, it must have its connection to the circuit broken using the switch when things are put into bypass mode.
If the LED is not wired directly into the board then this should be an easy fix.

Now the last wiring diagram you sent seems to be attempting that but it's hard to say for sure without knowing what "SW" means without a schematic.
So some questions:

If you wire up according to the last diagram but leave out the orange connection then what do you get...

1) Does the effect switch on OK, or even work at all?
2) Is there a delayed start up?
3) Does the LED work at all?
4) With your original wiring, how did the LED flash? Did it a fade in and out (i.e. varying brightness) or did it toggle between fully on and fully off?
(I am trying to work out where in the circuit that LED is connected).

[DrAlx]

I just found the build instructions.  I see the LED goes directly into the board.  You'll have to change that in order to fix things.
Also, your original photo has a wire going into the middle of the PCB.  What is that? It looks wrong. I can't see a pad there in the build instructions.

Wire the PCB like this...

1) The 9V connection point (square pad) and the square Gnd pad next to it should go directly to the supply pins (i.e. not use the switch) so that the PCB is permanently powered.
2) The two Gnd point on the board are most probably already connected to each other.
    They are just there for convenience so you can keep things tidy and have the power wires together on one side of the board, and the signal wires on the other.
3) You see from the schematic that one end of the LED connects to R38 and the other connects to ground.
    You need to break that direct connection between the LED and ground and route it via the switch so that in bypass mode the end of the LED that normally connects to ground is left disconnected.
    So disconnect the leg of the LED that connects to ground from the PCB.  Call that leg "SW".  That's what the orange wire needs to go to.

[duck_arse]

2jive - how is your circuit diagram reading, any good? now is a good time to learn both reading and writing circuit, by drawing out the actual switching diagram. and I don't mean a box with 9 lugs, draw the electrical representation of the switch, then you'l see where things go, and how they get there, and when. you can draw the circuit board as a black box if you like, but you need to include the dc and audio jax. and the led.

and, see if you can find a few more colours of wire. you will appreciate the ease of following.

listen to the good ^ DrA.

[2jive]

Thanks!!!   Easy fix done in 10 minutes. Pedal works perfectly now.

I've built a bunch of kits but recently the addiction has taken me to ordering pcbs and piecing them together myself. A lot more economical and of course a greater variety to choose from. Great hobby.
BTW: the wires floating around in the photo weren't hooked up to anything....just waiting for some clarity.

Not too great at reading schematics, but would like to get better at it defineitly. Funny, I also just ordered some coloured wire(s) from guitarpcb. I would some day like to figure out how to build the BYOC Vibrato (based on Boss VB-2) without the ramp switch and feature which I never use. It would then fit into a smaller enclosure. Been meaning to look at that schematic. Someday ......

Photos of finished pedal:

   

Here is a video of a tweed deluxe clone I built with some of my pedals (including Vibrato.) My youtube handle is guitarpr01. They actually put it on the Trinity amp kit website.
Thanks again, very helpful replies ; really appreciate it.

[2jive]

Thanks again.

[2jive]

My youtube videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BShXu7aGqNs