Noob question, switching between input capacitors!

Started by FuzzFanatic71, August 05, 2015, 10:41:22 AM

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FuzzFanatic71

Hey guys, I'm working on a little project and wondering if this would work.

If I were take a dpdt on off on toggle switch and solder my signal in and out wire to the centre 2 poles along with a .22uf cap.
Then add a .47uf cap to the outer two switch poles and a .10uf cap to the other two outer switch poles. Would I get the signal passing through the .22uf cap only in the centre switch position, then .69uf(.47uf+.22uf)by switching to the .47uf cap side of the switch position and .32uf (.22uf+.10uf) by switching to the .10uf switch position?

Does what I'm writing make sense?
Why won't this @$&$ing thing work?

bluebunny

Yeah, I think so.  A picture may help clarify things (for both of us!).
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

Ben N

Yes that does make sense, but I'd be concerned about maybe getting pops as you switch those caps in, unless there is some path to ground to allow built up charges to drain. Not sure how to do this.
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mth5044

That will work, but Ben brings up a good point. This could potentially be alleviated by usings a SPDT on/off/on and having the ends of the caps all tied together with the pull down resistor. Saves a bit of space too.

FuzzFanatic71

#4
Thanks guys, thought it would work. I already have the switch which is dpdt. The pop thing probably won't be too much issue. Will be pre setting the switch depending on what pickups and guitar or bass I'll be using at the time.
Just to clarify, the circuit it will be on is the input cap on a Matsumin Valvecaster am planning on building.
Why won't this @$&$ing thing work?

snap

Soon, Mark Hammer will inform you about the benefits of serial switching/shorting caps!

Ben N

Mark did something similar in his Oh Kay fuzz, but with emitter caps that are tied to ground anyway, not with input caps. No nead for two poles on that switch, as mth5044 said.
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bluebunny

Quote from: FuzzFanatic71 on August 05, 2015, 11:24:30 AM
I already have the switch which is dpdt.

You don't have to use all of that DPDT - ignore one side and do what the other guys suggested.  If you really want to use the whole switch, I'm sure one of Rob's lightshow circuits could come in handy.   ;D
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

Kipper4

Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/

Ben N

There ya go: Put all three caps in series, and use one side of the switch to bypass one cap, and one side to bypass the other.
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deadastronaut

Quote from: bluebunny on August 05, 2015, 04:17:45 PM
Quote from: FuzzFanatic71 on August 05, 2015, 11:24:30 AM
I already have the switch which is dpdt.

You don't have to use all of that DPDT - ignore one side and do what the other guys suggested.  If you really want to use the whole switch, I'm sure one of Rob's lightshow circuits could come in handy.   ;D

oi!..  :icon_twisted: ;D
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

FuzzFanatic71

Well I finished the project that this question was in relation to. Very successful build. I wired the caps in parallel on the switch, against you fine people's advice. Surprisingly I'm not getting any popping when switching between caps. I'm not sure why this is, but it's a good thing. I'm just wondering why this is for the sake of learning. Thanks for all your replies folks.
Why won't this @$&$ing thing work?