Millenium Bypass 2 Question

[rustylee]

I'm going to build the Millenium 2 Bypass but I don't understand a few things.  Does the Millenium 2 Bypass have its own power supply. If  so, is the negative side of the power supply connected to the connection marked "Change"?  Or is the power supply for the effect shared with this circuit.

To sum up, how is this thing connect to the effect circuit.

I'm somewhat competent at reading schematics, but this one has stumped me.

I'm referring to this drawing:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/Millenium/milckt.gif

[Thomas P.]

The circuit shares the powersupply with the effect. This means 9V is connected to +V and GND to (you know it) GND. Be carefull to have the right circuit, because one's for positive GND effects!!! Note that the picture of the N-channel Mosfet shows a P-channel Mosfet, which is a mistake!
If you don't know about the low-leakage diode, you can use a base-emitter junction of an ordinary NPN-tranny.

I believe in the schematics2 section was a better sheet for it...

Regards,
tomboy

P.S.: Be careful not to burn the Mosfet - I had this twice and wasted hours to find the problem

[rustylee]

Thanks Tomboy.  That's exactly what I was looking for.  The schematic you referred to is much more clear.

I'm building Francisco Peña's version of the Tubescreamer (El Griton) on the Tonepad website.

Perhaps this is obvious to the experienced builder, but the circuit board has a pad for the positive, so would I put the postive to both the Tubescreamer circuit and the Bypass circuit? :oops:

I appreciate the heads-up regarding the Mosfet.  I ordered the N-Channel type as I am working on a negative-ground effect.  I will be utilizing the NPN transistor to perform as a low-leakage diode.  How did you burn your Mosfet?  I'd like to avoid doing the same.

[Thomas P.]

Mmmm, a TS - good choize...I like the Blue Magic better, but anyway...

...everything in your effect that needs 9V should be connected to 9V - same goes with GND.
I burned it simply by giving it too much heat - but my shitty soldering iron was also a problem :wink:  To avoid it you should be really fast and of course solder the Mosfet as the last piece on the boards!

Regards,
tomboy

[Thomas P.]

Mmmm, a TS - good choize...I like the Blue Magic better, but anyway...

...everything in your effect that needs 9V should be connected to 9V - same goes with GND.
I burned it simply by giving it too much heat - but my shitty soldering iron was also a problem :wink:  To avoid it you should be really fast and of course solder the Mosfet as the last piece on the boards!

Regards,
tomboy

[rustylee]

Ok, I built the thing, but it's not working properly.  I breadboarded this project and I am finding that the LED will only come on - and stay on - when I momentarily touch the switch contact that connects to the Millenium Bypass II with my finger.  Any ideas what might be happening here?  

-Rusty

[Marcos - Munky]

Rob Strand have a simple transistor bypass circuit. I built one and looks great.

[darren]

i have the millenium 2 bypass in everything, i like it  did you use a low-leakage diode and a normal diode?  or are they both the same diode types?

[brett]

Rather than fiddel with a transistor for the low-leakage diode, use an 1N4001/1N4004/1N4006...(you get the picture, they all work).  

Be aware that different MOSFETS have different pinouts.  A BS170 faces "into" the board while a 2N7000 faces "away".

Also, while the TS clone is okay, some effects will need a resistor between the effect output and ground to enable the M2 to work.

cheers

[amckinley100]

Hey there rustylee

I'm no expert, but i had a similar problem (as have several others since i posted my request for help about a month ago!) - the LED would come on as desired, but then not switch off, or if it did switch off, it would come on again very slowly even when the effect was in the 'bypass' position.

Anyway, the post you're looking for is

http://diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=524

(take home point is the grounding resistor from the effect output *before* you wire it into the DPDT switch)

Hope that helps a little bit....this problem proved my 'inability' to read schematics - or to at least be capable of missing something out

[rustylee]

Hi mckinley,

I saw that resistor, too.  I will give it a shot and let you know how it goes...

-Rusty

[rustylee]

Well that did the trick.  Thanks mckinley?

[amckinley100]

Glad I was of assistance - a perfect example of how well this board works!

People learn from mistakes and are able to help someone else with 'newfound experience'!

making mistakes is an important part of learning - as I have now found, I 100% guarantee you'll never forget that resistor again!

Cheers

[rustylee]

Glad I was of assistance - a perfect example of how well this board works!

People learn from mistakes and are able to help someone else with 'newfound experience'!

making mistakes is an important part of learning - as I have now found, I 100% guarantee you'll never forget that resistor again!

Cheers

You got that right.  That was a painful lesson.

 I've been looking at the remote footswitch bypass which implements CMOS and relays.  This seems to be a better long-term solution for me.  And it looks like a heck of a lot of fun.  

I just finished the Dynacomp Compressor.  I saw someone ask in another thread if it were possible to use an Altoids box as an enclosure.   I thought this was a splendid idea.  I was at Sav-On the other day and saw some Altoids in a round tin.

The can looks really cool.  I used the Millenium Bypass for the indicator.  The funny thing is, on the lid of the tin is an area where you press to open the lid.  It says "PRESS", oddly enough.  I placed the LED through a hole right over the word PRESS.  Later I realized that when the effect is engaged, the light is indicating that the box is [com]PRESS[ing] the signal.  That was a happy little accident.

I say all this explain that I'm working on creating an effects board using projects that I build as well as some manufactured FX boxes.  I like the idea if having a single control area to engage and disengage effects, so I'm going to give the remote relay system a whirl.  It does not require a DPDT stomp switch, but rather it uses more common SPST momentary switch to control the state of the relay.  The relays are under $5.00 from Mouser.   It has LED indicators.  It's true bypass.

I really like the idea of using tins and stuff for cases, though the tins won't hold up to stomping, but they sure look cool.  As it is, my FX input and outputs of the Dynacomp are routed an external switchbox through shielded cable.  I'll have to see if this is going to be a problem with ground hum, or rather, buzz.

All in good fun...