aion titan voltages are way off

[Belanger]

ok so my voltages with no charge pump and ic in is
1-1.4 2-1.4 3-1.3 4- 0 5- .9 6- 1.3 7- 1.3 8- 2

with no ic's
socket ic1   1- 0 2- 0 3-1 4- 0 5- 2 6- 1 7- 1 8- 4.5

the 9/18v connection is on a switch   how I wired the switch was the bottom two squares go to lug 2 and top left square go to lug 1 and top right square goes to lug 3

I got these numbers with an 8v battery supplying power and I've also checked for shorts and bridges

[Belanger]

https://aionelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/aion-titan-ocd-documentation.pdf

[banjerpickin]

Have you tried just removing the switch and straight wiring the 9V selector (or 18V) to see if that works?  You could eliminate if the switch wiring is the problem or not.

FWIW I built one of these a while back and built the selector, but I put it on a DPDT switch where bottom pads went to the middle lugs, and then lined them on each side back to their respective pads.  I don't know if wiring both bottom pads to the same lug could cause problems, but it might - I'm also not sure which way voltage flows between those pads (bottom to top or top to bottom).  Perhaps you checked the traces, I'm just not sure. 

Someone who understands how charge pumps work could probably jump in here and help better than myself but in the meantime there's something you can try! 

[Belanger]

i haven't tried that yet, ill try it out now! thanks for the help

[Belanger]

I removed the switch and my voltages went up, I've added a new switch and my current voltages are '
1-7.94 2-7.96 3-7.99 4-8.23 5-7.95 6-7.76 7-7.73 8-8.12  with no charge pump,

[banjerpickin]

What are they supposed to be?  If you're not sure I could measure my build tonight.

[Kipper4]

Can I ask why you would put a charge pump on a switch?

[Belanger]

my friend wants to be able to switch back and forth between 9/18v instead of moving jumpers to switch back and forth   

[Belanger]

What are they supposed to be?  If you're not sure I could measure my build tonight.

from what I can see they should be typical 4.5  for 1-3-5-7 and then 4-0 and pin 8 around supply voltage if you could post working voltages that's a help as well. thanks again I really do appreciate the help  its important I get this sent off asap

when I had removed the switch and I broke the link between the two bottom pads of the 4 squares it acted the same so it shouldn't be the switch

[slacker]

I removed the switch and my voltages went up, I've added a new switch and my current voltages are '
1-7.94 2-7.96 3-7.99 4-8.23 5-7.95 6-7.76 7-7.73 8-8.12  with no charge pump,

When all your voltages are about the supply voltage like they are here it means you've got a ground connection missing somewhere. A dodgy or missing wire between the board and DC jakc/battery negative terminal maybe?

[Belanger]

I really can't find anything I reflowed the entire board and searched for bridges   only wiring besides the toggle switch is the dc jack which is wired properly    I'm stuck

I removed the switch and my voltages went up, I've added a new switch and my current voltages are '
1-7.94 2-7.96 3-7.99 4-8.23 5-7.95 6-7.76 7-7.73 8-8.12  with no charge pump,

When all your voltages are about the supply voltage like they are here it means you've got a ground connection missing somewhere. A dodgy or missing wire between the board and DC jakc/battery negative terminal maybe?

[slacker]

Use the continuity tester on your meter to check that points on the circuit that are supposed to be ground, like pin 4 of the opamp are connected to the DC jack negative terminal. If they are then I can't explain those voltages, try measuring them again and see if you get anything that makes more sense, on the opamp in 9 volt mode they should be pin 8 9 volts, pin 4 0 volts all the others about 4.5 volts.

[Belanger]

I went thru the schematic and literally every spot that is supposed to have continuity with ground does.  I'm really confused as to what it is, in the build document he even mentions putting the 9/18v on a toggle switch

Use the continuity tester on your meter to check that points on the circuit that are supposed to be ground, like pin 4 of the opamp are connected to the DC jack negative terminal. If they are then I can't explain those voltages, try measuring them again and see if you get anything that makes more sense, on the opamp in 9-volt mode, they should be pin 8 9 volts, pin 4 0 volts all the others about 4.5 volts.

[banjerpickin]

I went thru the schematic and literally every spot that is supposed to have continuity with ground does.  I'm really confused as to what it is, in the build document he even mentions putting the 9/18v on a toggle switch

The only time I had 9 volts in my ground pins I had a bad IC.  You sure the IC didn't get fried or isn't defective?  Sorry I didn't get a chance to measure my pins, hopefully can get to tomorrow if you still need them.

[Belanger]

ill try a new opamp again but ive tried a new tl082, jrc4558 already so i doubt its that ic     if my supplier sold me one of those counterfit maxim 1044 voltage regulators is it possible it may have damaged something the first time started it up with all ic's in place    just a thought im not sure if that could happen or not lol

working voltages would be amazing tho thank you

I went thru the schematic and literally every spot that is supposed to have continuity with ground does.  I'm really confused as to what it is, in the build document he even mentions putting the 9/18v on a toggle switch

The only time I had 9 volts in my ground pins I had a bad IC.  You sure the IC didn't get fried or isn't defective?  Sorry I didn't get a chance to measure my pins, hopefully can get to tomorrow if you still need them.

[banjerpickin]

Welp, sounds like its time to get out the audio probe and start poking around!