25 watt or 40 watt for stompboxes?

[flashtilley]

Hi Folks,

For stompboxes, is it best to use a 25 watt or 40 watt iron?

Thanks!

[GibsonGM]

25W!     A 40 is useful for much heavier soldering applications, but would be too hot for what we do.

Welcome to the forum

[EBK]

Temperature-controlled soldering station would be better, but you'd have less money to build pedals after buying one.  Once I talked myself into buying my Hakko station, I became much happier when soldering.

In my opinion, the potential to mess stuff up is higher with an underpowered iron than it is with an overpowered iron.  (But, 25w should be fine)

[woolie]

Edsyn Loner 951SX. Got one, never looked back. Best investment I ever made for electronics. I've heard the equivalent Hakka is nice too.


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[thermionix]

Funny, I have two irons, a 25W and a 40W.  I use the 25W with a smallish tip for pedal work.  The 40W is hot as all getout and is great for chassis grounds in amps, I run it at about 85~90v on a variac for in-between work.

[PRR]

Construction and quality are at least as important as "Watts".

The "25W" irons for $13 are just junk. Annoying in expert hands and sometimes impossibly frustrating to a Beginner who does not know how a good joint goes and can't quickly spot bad joints.

And practice! De-solder an old VCR or something to get an idea how solder flows.

[flashtilley]

Thanks guys!  For the 3PDT switch, is it best to use a chisel tip and solder quickly with a 40 watt?  I know they can't take a lot of heat and I ruined one already.

[EBK]

Thanks guys!  For the 3PDT switch, is it best to use a chisel tip and solder quickly with a 40 watt?  I know they can't take a lot of heat and I ruined one already.

you can solder each terminal quickly, but take a short break between terminals to let everything cool a bit.

[thermionix]

Thanks guys!  For the 3PDT switch, is it best to use a chisel tip and solder quickly with a 40 watt?  I know they can't take a lot of heat and I ruined one already.

I've had good luck soldering quickly with the 25w on the stomp switches.  Probably not all 25w irons are created equally though.  I'm using a Weller WP-25 with what I suppose is called a 1/16" screwdriver tip.  My 40w is also a Weller, but the super cheap Marksman series.  It is WAY too hot for pedal work IMO, unless dialed down on the variac.

[mwelch55]

For several years, I used a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron.  I made an extension cord with a quad outlet box on the end that has one duplex outlet and a dimmer control.  The dimmer is wired to the duplex outlet, so I can adjust the voltage to the iron and dial in just the right temperature (after a little trial and error).  I used that setup for years, but about a year ago, I bought a Weller WES51 and love it.  It has a thermostat built-in, so it stays at the temperature you set it at.  They are a little pricey, but if you do a lot of soldering, you may be able to justify the cost.  I got mine for around $100.

Mike

[deadlyshart]

Temperature-controlled soldering station would be better, but you'd have less money to build pedals after buying one.  Once I talked myself into buying my Hakko station, I became much happier when soldering.

In my opinion, the potential to mess stuff up is higher with an underpowered iron than it is with an overpowered iron.  (But, 25w should be fine)

TRU DAT

HAKKO 4 LYFE



Seriously, just don't bother with anything else. Just get the damn Hakko.

[khm9]

Temperature-controlled soldering station would be better, but you'd have less money to build pedals after buying one.  Once I talked myself into buying my Hakko station, I became much happier when soldering.

In my opinion, the potential to mess stuff up is higher with an underpowered iron than it is with an overpowered iron.  (But, 25w should be fine)

Hi EBK,
I've been wanting to get a soldering station lately, but no sure if they are really worth it for what we do, never liked the look of Hakko station, looks like a child's toy, but if it's reliable and good quality, I'd consider buying it.
Do you still use it? Have you had any problems with it?

Thanks

[EBK]

Temperature-controlled soldering station would be better, but you'd have less money to build pedals after buying one.  Once I talked myself into buying my Hakko station, I became much happier when soldering.

In my opinion, the potential to mess stuff up is higher with an underpowered iron than it is with an overpowered iron.  (But, 25w should be fine)

Hi EBK,
I've been wanting to get a soldering station lately, but no sure if they are really worth it for what we do, never liked the look of Hakko station, looks like a child's toy, but if it's reliable and good quality, I'd consider buying it.
Do you still use it? Have you had any problems with it?

Thanks

I use it regularly.  Haven't had any problems.  I actually decided on the Hakko brand after some research suggested that Weller was slipping a bit in its reputation.

I've even bought a second tip for it directly from Hakko for some SMT work.  That experience was positive as well.  One tip: if you get one, you will eventually need a new sponge.  The Hakko brand ones are rediculously priced, but generics are readily available, but you have to wash out whatever it is they put on them during manufacturing.

[flashtilley]

Any opinions on the weller SP25NKCN?

[EBK]

I guess I should add that the Hakko station I have is the FX888D-23BY.  I think it is a US-only model, for reasons known only to Hakko.

[chuckd666]

EBK I believe the "23BY" suffix is just a specific code for the extras that are bundled with the actual unit which is the FX-888D. I also have one of them with the same stuff and I'm in Australia so who bloody knows!

I have one and it's excellent and well priced. Feels.. luxurious to the cheapie I was using before.

[EBK]

EBK I believe the "23BY" suffix is just a specific code for the extras that are bundled with the actual unit which is the FX-888D. I also have one of them with the same stuff and I'm in Australia so who bloody knows!

I have one and it's excellent and well priced. Feels.. luxurious to the cheapie I was using before.

I believe the BY just means Blue Yellow.  I half recall trying to buy a FX-888D and only finding the BY available.  Otherwise, I believe they are equivalent.  Maybe their marketing research demonstrated that Americans and Australians love blue and yellow.   
I'm "OK" with the color, but I, much like you, am quite pleased with how well it works.

[rutabaga bob]

I think the U.S. designation has to do with the voltage...my Aoyue station came the same way.