Can anybody help a novice with a circuit trace?

[Bolty_Guitars]

Hi, I've just had to remove some epoxy from a failed treble booster (germanium) and in the process I've destroyed the AC128 transistor and PCB  (didn't intend to but it was solid in that nasty black gloop) so it means i can't repair anymore.

I've traced out the circuit board and component location, but wondered if one of the more skilled members would be so kind as to draw the schematic? I've tried and failed as I'm not very good with this stuff yet. I liked the sound so i wish to rebuild on veroboard!

I'd be so grateful.

[Bolty_Guitars]

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/IMG_6646.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

Can't get the photo on the post so this is the link

[GibsonGM]

I took a quick look, Bolty, and it seems there could be a couple of errors on the drawing.  Like 'input and battery positive'.

Could you photograph the top and bottom of the actual board?  Or at least give us the brand name?


It may in fact be EASIER to just get a piece of perfboard and build a totally new one, IMO!  http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/boosters/rangemaster/    You can get everything very cheap at Small Bear Electric...but if you really want the exact one, photos would be great.

Welcome to the forum! 

[Bolty_Guitars]

Thank you for coming back to me.

I do indeed wish to build a brand new one on veroboard.

The brand and model is "Electrolead GC-46" and it's been discontinued for about ten years so no longer available to buy. Electrolead was a small uk company and the booster was in the style of Brian Mays booster which he used inbetween losing his Rangemaster and getting the Cornish TB83.

I will try to upload photos of it before and after my de gloop which went wrong.

My notation of battery positive and input is probably wrong but i was trying to draw that the red lead from the battery clip was connected to one of the lugs on the input jack

[Bolty_Guitars]

Before it was destroyed by me:



Jacks:




After destruction:






The 2 gaps at the top of the board are where the electrolytic 100uf 16V caps were. In the picture of the underside of the board the electrolytic caps would be at the bottom.

This resistor I've zoomed in on immediately to the right of the yellow capacitor was connected to the pin you can just see below the resistor and adjacent to the blue wire - the lug was trapped in gloop and came out with the gloop:



I just double checked my trace and apart from not knowing values yet, and the query about the battery positive lead, the trace is correct.

[Bolty_Guitars]

Trace better quality and in post:

[Bolty_Guitars]

Damn gloop!!!

[GibsonGM]

Looks like positive ground but I am trying to read the pinout to be sure.   Thin red top pic...goes to battery?  The doubled blue wires should then be ground, and would have continuity when a jack is plugged in.  Can you confirm that?   Then we can say blue is ground.  Thick red would be in and output.

[GibsonGM]

Between you and me, a one-transistor boost is a pretty simple one-trick pony.  Looks like you've got some wacky resistors there, too, you'd have to read and jot on the schematic.    Most of these are VERY close to each other in design and performance...if you built a Rangemaster, you'd probably have about the same thing, and known to work. 

[Bolty_Guitars]

Yes, I can confirm that.