Waterslide Wrinkled

[cnspedalbuilder]

Hi, this is the second time I've used waterslide decals on the pedal. Both times the laser-printed decal went on fine, but it became wrinkled after I sprayed on clear coat.

If it helps:
-enclosure is pre-painted from Tayda
-I put on the decal this morning and left it out to dry for a few hours. It's a hot day and everything got dry in a couple of hours.
-I used Microset to soften the decal, but did not use a solvent afterward.

Any thoughts as to what I've done wrong? Thanks!

[slashandburn]

From what you have said all i can think is that you're shooting clear too soon after applying? I'm no expert but i've been experimenting quite a bit with decals lately to varying degrees of success. So far I haven't seen the need for MicroSol or MicroSet. My only issues have been with printing, rather than application.

After i print, I set it aside (to let the toner dry, if it even needs to dry), then after i've had a coffee I spray with a light coat of lacquer and leave to dry.  A few hours later i drop the decals in water for about 30 seconds to a minute and they just slide right on. 

If your applied decals aren't completely dry when you shoot clear.........

[cnspedalbuilder]

Thanks Iain, I thought about that--they look and feel dry, but I didn't wait 24 hours like some people suggest. More like 2 hours in the hot sun. Maybe that wasn't enough?

I actually was smart enough to create a test decal for the bottom of my pedal, so that is what got wrinkled. I've still not clearcoated the topside of the enclosure, so there's still a chance that it could work.

But given that I'm 0 for 2, I'm wondering if I'm better off skipping the clearcoat altogether?

[Keppy]

1. Apply decal.
2. Micro Sol (optional)
3. Dry overnight.
4. First coat of clear as thin as you can make it. Dry naturally or in a toaster oven.

Other processes may work, but this works for me, consistently. YMMV.

Thin means thin. I suspect that's the problem. Not from anything you've said, just remembering my first attempts and theorizing that our struggles are probably more similar than different.

I wouldn't skip the clear. Decals scratch, rip, and pull up without it. I never tried Micro Set though, so maybe that makes a difference.

[stringsthings]

As others suggested, I would let the decal dry overnight after applying it to the enclosure.
I suspect any tiny bit of moisture left could be the cause of wrinkling when clearcoating.

[MrStab]

definitely dry overnight. i don't notice trapped water spots under decals until something like 4 or 5 hours after applying it.

although it's usually only done with inkjet decal paper, if you spray laser paper with clear coat a few days before applying it, it makes the decal much more rigid and easier to apply. i haven't had any crinkles this way.

[bluebunny]

I'm not sure the Microset is at all necessary.  Seems more relevant when applying decals to non-flat surfaces (so not pedals).  And "drying in the sun" is really "heating in the sun".  A metal pedal in direct sunlight is going to get extremely hot.  I can't speculate what this does to a decal?  I know the UK is hardly tropical, but I let mine dry naturally indoors at least overnight.  No heating necessary.

[cnspedalbuilder]

Yeah, microset isn't necessary. It softened up the decal a bit, but it's basically vinegar, so no need to get it. I am thinking it must have been that both times I did not let it go overnight.

On the plus side, my enclosure now has a relic'd finish. 

[bluebunny]

On the plus side, my enclosure no has a relic'd finish. 

Ah, "mojo".   

[John Lyons]

I think heat is the issue.
That and the decal may still have been wet to
some extent.
If you had a water layer (wet decal) and you
sprayed a clear coat over it the clear dries faster than
the water and the water was trapped between the
glossy box and a curing clear coat. The decal
slipped on the box most likely and cause the wrinkle.

For what it's worth. Here is my process. (Basic Audio)
Spray a coat of lacquer (as in actual lacquer not acrylic)
on the box. The wetter the decal the easier it is to slide
around and get placement correct.
Let dry fully. Apply the decal and dry with the
help of a fan (no heat or direct sun). Spray a mist coat of
lacquer over the decal and let dry mostly. Trim out the holes
with a razor knife in a downward cut as to not peel the decal edges.
Spray a wet coat over the decal and let cure. Done!
Lacquer will cure in about 30 minutes or less to the touch.
Do not use a fan to dry the lacquer as it needs to eat into
the decal. It will melt the decal into the first coat on the box.
If you fan dry it it will wrinkle or not adhere as well.

[cnspedalbuilder]

Thanks this is useful. I swear the decal looked and felt dry, but I suspect that I needed to wait 24 hours for it to really dry out.

BTW, when you say "lacquer", can you specify? In my early iterations, I used Ace Spray Polyacrylic. That made everything sort of yellow.

This time I used Rustoleum clear spray: http://www.rustoleum.com/DigitalEncyclopedia/product-catalog/RustOleumUSA/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/clear/

I find it really confusing differentiating between lacquer, shellac, acrylic, polyurethane, etc.

[EBK]

Thanks this is useful. I swear the decal looked and felt dry, but I suspect that I needed to wait 24 hours for it to really dry out.

BTW, when you say "lacquer", can you specify? In my early iterations, I used Ace Spray Polyacrylic. That made everything sort of yellow.

This time I used Rustoleum clear spray: http://www.rustoleum.com/DigitalEncyclopedia/product-catalog/RustOleumUSA/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/clear/

I find it really confusing differentiating between lacquer, shellac, acrylic, polyurethane, etc.

I'm right there with you. I find the abundance of product types/terms confusing. I just want something clear, easy, and awesome.   

[John Lyons]

Lacquer is often used as general coating term, I know...

Here's an article that breaks down the differences.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

Polyacylic is similar to polyurathane in how it dries/cures.
Lacquer dries to the touch in 30 minutes or less.

I use this.

[EBK]

I've been attempting to use this stuff (hate it):


If you follow the directions on the can, you get a wet beach sand texture.  Once you get frustrated with that, you can ignore the directions and get a convincing orange peel texture.  Smooth, flat texture has been unattainable, except on a few patches here and there.   
Oh, and it smells like paint fumes for more than a week after you finish.

Should I start a new thread?