Mozzrite Fuzzrite Clone trouble

[bifbangpow]

Ok. My pedal gets clean sound but no fx and the led doesn't light up.  Im using the Mozzrite Fuzzrite project from Gen Guitar Gadgets  http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/fuzz-tones/mosrite-fuzzrite/

Battery lead at board is good: 9.7 V
Battery lead at the power jack is good: 9.7V

Q1: (a) 0.0 v  (b) 0.59v  (c) 0.8v
Q2: (a) 0.0v  (b) 0.50v  (c) 0.8v

I also tested every connection with the multimeter.  All read connected.  So My guess is either the LED is broken, or the circuit on the pcb is shorted somehow.  Can someone take a look? I'd like your skilled eyes.

<img src="https://ibb.co/gpGkyn"> </img>

<img src="https://ibb.co/ieqpPS"> </img>

<img src="https://ibb.co/gvuijS"> </img>


<img src="https://ibb.co/ciapPS"> </img>


<img src="https://ibb.co/cQ6FW7"> </img>


<img src="https://ibb.co/mK3JjS"> </img>


<img src="https://ibb.co/fDKr4S"> </img>

[GibsonGM]

All I can suggest is to literally trace the 9V to the 470k resistor, the other side of the resistor, to the transistor...to ground again.  You HAVE to have power there, if it's all connected.  You're sure the ground is connected correctly, and a plug is inserted in the input jack when you are taking your readings?   I'm sure you know, that switches the effect on and off....
Just start at the beginning, take it in logical steps.     The most common errors are in switch wiring, and jacks....

[bifbangpow]

yeah.  Ive resoldered the switch a thousand times.  The jacks are fine because i have clean sound. right?

[diffeq]

Second what Mike said. If there's 9V on board but there's no FX and/or LED light, it have to drop somewhere. The board look alright but it's hard to tell if any component is faulty or not just by looking at it. R10, R2, R4 should have voltage on them.
If I recall correctly, LED can be tested with continuity mode - should light up when black MM lead goes to cathode.

[GibsonGM]

Yes.   Do your transistors have continuity with ground at their emitters?  Are we sure we have the pinout corrrect for them, and have not grounded the base or something like that?

I always test a new board by temp. soldering jacks to it, giving it battery power with alligator-clip jumpers, and seeing if it will go.  If all is OK, then I add the switch wiring.  Experience says a huge percentage of the time, the error is in the switch wiring, or the jacks.   You might want to remove the switch, try this, and then try to re-do it?    Solder/unsolder the switch as fast as you can, heat can damage it!

The LED could be backwards, blown, or have no power like you're thinking.  I'd ignore that til you're getting sound from the board.  You'll get this, don't stress     It takes a long time to come up with a logical approach when you are new to it, but it gets a lot faster as you gain experience!

Your ground wiring at the input jack could be screwed up, I am guessing, or the board not connected etc etc etc but that is 'easter egging'...I would check that the battery ground is going to the correct tab, and board to the other proper tab, PCB too, as that is easy to reverse or confuse.    If that's ok, follow the 9V entering the board to the 470k resistor, over it to Q1....should be voltage all the way...if not, re-flow the solder on the resistor...oh and power with a battery for testing, it makes it simpler.

[duck_arse]

I'm looking at this img:


and it looks to me as thought the wiper and CCW of the volume pot are shorting. this will kill your output stone dead, evertime. follow that orange wire to where it goes, and meter that point's resistance to ground, please.

[thermionix]

^Yes.  Snip that jumper and report back.