SPST 3 pole bypass switch for Potentiometer

[Juicy_scooby]

Hi guys!!

I have a question about wiring in a SPST switch (ON-ON) "around" a potentiometer, so that you can use the potentiometer in one position, and or just bypass it

This is from a kit, Fuzz Dog's Green Stinger (Green Ringer clone).

I'm confused which poles I should wire the switch to, the schematic uses R14 to represent the switch and it obviously has only 2 pins, whereas the switch has 3.

I've looked up wiring for this type of switch and it numbers the lugs 1 - Load, 2 - Battery, 3 - Load.

Would I wire lugs 1 and 3 to the respective pins where R14 is, and then connect my 9v power to lug 2? Seems odd. I don't know enough about switches to interpret the schematic and diagram.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys

[thermionix]

I'm not 100% sure how you wish to connect this switch, but a SPST only has two pins.  Three pins would be SPDT.  That's okay though, just use the center pin and either of the outside pins, will "make or break" the connection, all a SPST can do.

[Juicy_scooby]

Ah yes! I thought this didn't add up right. Maybe the company sent a SPDT instead when an SPST would suffice?

So just to be sure I do it right: if I connect the middle pin, pin 2 of the switch to the side of the resistor spot that goes to pin 1 of the pot, and then pin 1/3 of the switch to the only other resistor pin, rest of the pot where it should go? Makes sense to me.

Thanks for clarifying!!

[PRR]

> Maybe the company sent a SPDT instead when an SPST would suffice?

Reasonable.

Both "ways" need something to bang into. A terminal can do that job, and is already in production in bulk. A SPDT can always replace a SPST, so just one part-number to stock.

In a market which ONLY (99%) buys one-way switches, like house light switches, it makes sense to have a dummy internal stop for the Off position. But in DIY work it often makes sense to use "too good" switches.