Janglebox clone distortion/fuzz problem

[replaceablehead]

I'm building this compressor clone - https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com.au/2016/07/janglebox.html?showComment=1486465964745#c3476765605287194048 

This is my fifth pedal build and first compressor, but its not going very well. I've been lucky in all my other builds and never really had to debug anything.

I'm getting a strange oscillating fuzz sound. Theres no sound at all until I hit the strings hard and then suddenly it will come on with fuzz/buzz sound that continues steady on the decay but cuts in and out as the signal dies. Is this bad envelope ripple?

I've measured the transistors.
Q1
C: 8.82
B: 1.14
E: 1.28

Q2
C: 8.73
B: 0.08
E: 0

Q3
C: 4.4
B: 0.53
E: 0

Q4
C: 4.4
B: 0.08
E: 0

Q5
C: 8.83
B: 4.4
E: 8.2

IC
1: 0
2: 2.2
3: 2.2
4: 0
5: 3.6
6: 0.08
7: 8.82
8: 0

I've checked polarity on all the capacitors and triple checked the transistor orientations.

I'd really appreciate it if anyone has a suggestion.

[chuckd666]

Where did you source your CA3080? (or NTE996)

[replaceablehead]

Ah China its a ca3080ae so I thought I'd be safe enough with plastic. I also bought two, and I've swapped both and got the same readings. Used an alligator clip for a heat sink too just to be safe. Do the readings look off? I know next to nothing about what they should read.

[R.G.]

It's dramatically bad. The CA3080's bias current input is a silicon diode, and the current into it is reflected into the total current from the power supply. It is not normally possible to get that pin more than 0.7V above ground. In fact, pouring more than 1ma through it usually kills the device.

Yours says it's at 3.6V. That means that either (1) the chip is stone cold dead now or (2) it wasn't a 3080 to start with. In either case, it's not functional now - but you knew that.

If your layout accidentally forced more than 1ma into that pin, it killed the chip and will kill any new and working ones you put in there.

[EBK]

It's dramatically bad.

Something about the contrast between the calmness and content of that statement made me laugh.   

[replaceablehead]

I see 

[replaceablehead]

I'll double check the measurements, but I fear you are right. I've never done a board with the traces so close together and I'm a little worried I might have under etched it. I spent a few hours going over suspect area's with a diamond file, but I'd say there's every chance I've fried it. I'm thinking I should start over, and eliminate any chance of bad traces.

[PRR]

We have seen so many "bad LM3080s" here, that I no longer think to blame the builder. I think someone took large quantity of some unloved 8-DIP, re-marked it as '3080, and wholesales to eBay sellers who may have no idea what it is.

Small Bear is one for-sure good source.

[replaceablehead]

Thanks for the tip. Sounds like it's not worth the headache of reordering one from China.

[reddesert]

Suggest either buying a good 3080 from Smallbear, or building with a LM13700 using this layout: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2016/05/lm13700-janglebox.html

Edit: that's vero rather than PCB. I don't know if there is a PCB layout for the 13700 janglebox. You can also adapt a 13700 to your existing PCB using a daughterboard shown here: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/10/emma-transmorgrifier.html

[replaceablehead]

I was thinking about using a LM13700, but I had a bit of trouble finding them in Australia. I've since managed to source some. So anyone who's looking for a supplier for the LM13700 in Australia, you can order them from RS Electronics and they also stock the 2n5088 transistors which had proved a bit hard to find as well.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[Pursuit Of Tone]

I am working on a dead Janlebox (gold "Byrds" version). Can anyone tell me the component part numbers for the smt transistors/fets on the pcb? Does anyone have an exact (or near correct) schematic for the unit?