How to tighten nut on panel mount 2.1mm DC barrel jack

[dave999z]

Hello.

I just finished building a true bypass switcher.  I'm having trouble tightening the DC barrel jack because there is very little clearance inside the enclosure between the jack and other parts (I can't fit a socket, or a pliers in there).  Anyone have any trick for how to somehow tighten it, even though I can't get a tool in there?

It's this type of jack:  https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Panel-Mount-2-1mm-barrel/dp/B00NAY3FKU/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=panel+mount+2.1+mm+barrel+jack&qid=1562555167&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Thanks in advance for any info.

[DIY Bass]

If you can get a screwdriver or similar down beside then you can try using that to hold the nut from turning and then turn the lack from the outside by hand.  I have done that before with success.  You have to be able to stop and reverse the whole lot at times or you will twist the wires up a lot.

[italianguy63]

I use a set of surgical hemostats.

[dave999z]

Thanks guys.  This is helpful.

[davent]

ESP spanner or clone may fit, works well for tightening lots of other awkward to tighten nuts such as round knurled, wouldn't go to waste.


dave

[Mark Hammer]

There are "innie" and "outie" 2.1mm jacks.

Innies lie near flush with the outside of the chassis and have to be attached from the inside.  Great for minimizing the distance between pedals on a pedalboard, but you need to have the space inside the enclosure to work on them.

Outies require little room inside the enclosure, and attach from the outside, which is easier to work with.  The downside is that they make the DC plug stick out far, which may get in the way of packing pedals in tight.

Your choice.  Good to have some of each on hand, to suit every circumstance.

[willienillie]

very little clearance inside the enclosure between the jack and other parts

Install the DC jack before the other parts.  One thing I didn't really notice at first is that the black plastic part has flats, I usually use an adjustable wrench to hold that while I tighten the nut with needle nose pliers or similar.

[davent]

very little clearance inside the enclosure between the jack and other parts

Install the DC jack before the other parts.  One thing I didn't really notice at first is that the black plastic part has flats, I usually use an adjustable wrench to hold that while I tighten the nut with needle nose pliers or similar.

You're supposed to create a hole with flats so you don't need a second means of holding the body of the jac to tighten the nut.

dave

[willienillie]

You're supposed to create a hole with flats

Yeah I lost that drill bit.

[BJM]

Keep the jack in place by pressing on and tighthen the nut by pressing on the side of it with a small flat screwdriver. if you press hard enough there will be some grip/friction so you can move the nut. Plastic nuts will give more gript.

[amptramp]

You may have to create your own tool out of scrap steel.  Something like a piece of steel stud from a house may be the right thickness and you could cut out a wrench/spanner that would do the job.

But I like the idea of the jack that screws in from the outside as shown in Mark Hammer's post because if you ever have to remove the board, the jack can come with it.  The existing one has to be unsoldered and resoldered if the board comes out.

Or just put the existing jack in first so you have room for tools.

[bartimaeus]

very little clearance inside the enclosure between the jack and other parts

Install the DC jack before the other parts.

+1

This seems obvious but it took me a few pedals to realize that it's always best install the DC jack first.