ParaBass Ruby type Amp

Started by strungout, August 15, 2020, 07:05:07 AM

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strungout

So, I've ben using my Ruby amp as a bass amp, which I leave at my friends' to play when I go there. It sounds good, very mid-range-y with a bit of lows. I run it on 12V.
I decided I was gonna build a new box for my it (folded-horn type (I blame Mark)), and while I was at it, change the circuit a bit to include a parametric bass control to offset the mid bump and hit the enclosure's resonant peak. I'm happy with the circuit, so far.

There's a 'bass boost' example circuit on the LM386 datasheet, but it's actually a treble cut, it seems.
I remembered reading Alfonso Hermida's talking points on how to build a hi-gain multi-stage distortion, when feu RDV was designing his Heavy Metal Pedal, and he made one point about the parametric 'bass' EQ: to use it to tune-in the 'cabinet' resonnant frequency. I thought it might work as well for this amp. Give it that much more Hmph, since it's a small enclosure, it needs it... With a para-EQ, I can dial in the frequency that makes my current enclosure boogie. I made it adjustable from 33Hz to 473Hz. But my bass's low B is at 31Hz. I should lower the range a smidge... I removed the Gain pot and just left pin 1 and 8 unconnected for the lowest gain (20), to keep it as clean as possible when the lows are boosted. It does go to the edge of breaking up, but I have to hit the strings real hard to get it there at max boost. If I need distortion, I'll plug in a pedal, heh.

For now, I'm still using the same enclosure (a metal, cylindrical, ex-cellphone-packaging box), till I can find/buy some wood. I was thinking 3/8" pine plywood for the folded-horn box. Will be light and solid enough, if I build it right. It would be W 6" x H 10" x D 8" (see picture). Small. Needs to be stored in a cupboard at my Bro's. The speaker is a 4" 4 Ohm subwoofer. Right now, the speaker is at the bottom of the cylinder, facing outward and down, like a subwoofer box, proped up with rubber feet. I expect the tone to change a lot in the new construction. For the better I hope.
I haven't got rid of all the noise, but it's not bad at all. What helped most was just adding a 100nF cap after the first 2k2, where Vref comes in through a 1M, for a lowpass filter at 723Hz. Tried other values, but 100n was good.

Anyway, I was looking for advice, suggestions, comments before I commit this to perf. See anything that can be improved? I mostly hack things together with my limited knowledge. It works, but if it could be better at what it does... The goal was just to add bass control/more bass while being able to tune back in to the mid-range-y sound.
I'm using a 10 Ohm 5W ceramic resistor in the zobel network. Does the resistance need to be x10 the output wattage, as I read, or will 5W do? This circuit outputs 1W with a 4 Ohm speaker, right?

I'm-a go play with it some more...


Schematic:


3D mock up:


Current Enclosure:


"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".

Steben

Cool.

Just a tiny thing: may I ask why a mosfet as input? A JFET works just as good (less parts!, perhaps less noise).
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Rules apply only for those who are not allowed to break them

niektb


Steben

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Rules apply only for those who are not allowed to break them

duck_arse

I've only ever seen Zobel's with 1/4 or 1/2 W resistors.
" Hence the duck effect. "

strungout

I was thinking about what I wrote and it doesn't make sense... x10. Imagine the size of that resistor on a 100W amp...   :icon_rolleyes:

Quote from: duck_arse on August 15, 2020, 12:01:42 PM
I've only ever seen Zobel's with 1/4 or 1/2 W resistors.

Ok, well, smaller board! But, seriously, I keep finding these threads about woofers and crossovers needing 10-30W resistor in the zobel network... Any idea what's up with that!?


"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".

strungout

#6
Edit: This amp doesn't like my 32 Ohms headphones... or their sensitivity. I don't know. It hums when I plug them in (speaker out of the circuit)... What am I missing?

So, I haven't bought the wood yet and it's sunday. Will have to go tomorrow.

I ran into a problem I hadn't considered yet: shielding! I need to shield the circuit... The cylindrical enclosure is aluminum, so I didn't have to add anything to shield it. The other ideas I had either cost more money or were a PITA (conductive paint, copper tape,etc). The simplest solution was to make two cut-aways at the top/back and use a 1590BB sized box. Looks good:



I'm thinking I'll screw the box from the inside, to the top underside of the cabinet. I'll also make the left panel removeable, for easy access to everything.

Revised schematic:


Changed some values in the parametric stage. Added a headphones jack, which will disconnect the speaker when used. Added a reverse polarity protection diode.

I like having a project. Keeps me focus on other stuff. Stuff that's worthwhile thinking about. Coming along well.
"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".

PRR

Raise the headphone sleeve resistor to 100-300 Ohms. Does that drop hum?

Of course there shouldn't be hum in the system, if perfectly powered, filtered, shielded.

I note you bias the JFET direct from power, even though you have a well-filtered Vref in the system.

IIRC, pin 7 bypass can be a lot more than 10uFd and benefit full-bass speaker/phone (10uFd is for a gutless pocket radio).

I do not think that shoebox qualifies as a "bass horn". It may do best as a sealed box. Be prepared to try it.
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strungout

When I first powered circuit, a few minute ago, there was no hum. At all. I unplugged it to change the 10 ohm resistor off the sleeve, and when I plugged it back in, it was humming again, though less with a 100 ohm resistor. I went up to 330 ohm and the hum is barely audible.
After that, I changed the biasing on the buffer. You're right, it was redundant. No change in hum, though.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the hum is a lot worse when I touch the metal on the Frequency pot and goes away when I touch the ground. If I touch both, I get hum, though not as loud. Do I just have a grounding problem? The enclosure should make it more silent. And with the knobs I won't be touching the bare metal. I just want to make it a silent a possible before that.

And I'm not expecting my friend's neighbors to complain! But I take your point.
"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".

PRR

> Do I just have a grounding problem?

Seems likely.
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strungout

Everything worked out ok, all in glorious imperfection. It does sound bigger, I think, than the old one. It sure does have more bass. Because of the parametric EQ. It oscillates if I max everything, though. But, the speaker distorts if I do anyway. I think theresonance is too high... Otherwise, It's silent enough (have to put my ear right next to the speaker to hear noise), I can get some bassy fuzz and it gets clean enough. Could be worse. Will do the job.

Some Pics:







Some sounds:

https://soundcloud.com/user-165425177/parabassrubyamp01/s-JVK4PAUl8gi

https://soundcloud.com/user-165425177/parabassrubyamp02/s-Rm7qTCQW759


"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".

PRR

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strungout

"Displaying my ignorance for the whole world to teach".

"Taste can be acquired, like knowledge. What you find bitter, or can't understand, now, you might appreciate later. If you keep trying".