Suggestions on rivet gun and rivet sizes for installing 9v battery holder?

Started by Bandwagonesque, October 18, 2023, 12:22:33 AM

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Bandwagonesque

Hello everyone. It's a day i've long avoided but today is the day I must buy a rivet gun. In short, I had a few blank fuzz face enclosures fall into my lap and it looks like the bottom plate has a 4mm diameter hole allocated for a rivet to hold one of these style 9V battery holders in place:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/215/6-745941.pdf

I have just the same battery holders on hand luckily, but no rivet gun nor rivets nor any idea as to what I am doing as I forgot everything I remembered from high school metal shop and that was around the last time I riveted anything. Can anyone here who rivets in their 9V battery holders give me any suggestions as to what gun they've used through years of battle, and what size or type of rivet I should be using (pop rivet?). Any general tips or suggestions one should know as far as rivets and pedals/enclosures go? Any help in avoiding bumming things up would be really helpful. thanks everyone for reading.

diffeq


GibsonGM

I like the screw idea too. I'd be afraid the rivet gun would apply so much joining pressure that it would crack parts (if they're plastic, of course! Thinking most battery boxes are)   If metal, you might find the rivet is too long and the parts aren't tight. You COULD measure the sheet metal and 'other part' thicknesses, to come up with a rivet length.

I do recommend that one own a rivet gun, though...they are irreplaceable when you REALLY need one!  Like up here in rusty Maine, to rivet sheet metal on your car so you can pass inspection  :icon_mrgreen:
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Bandwagonesque

thanks a bunch for the help and replies. I was thinking of going the screw and nut route and then coating the nut with that red/blue glue-esque stuff electronic companies cover their hardware with after installation to show that someone worked on the circuit after the fact and to keep the hardware in place, i think (anyone know what that stuff is and if locks the hardware in place or is it just used as a warranty safeguard?).




I have seen just about everybody else use rivets (heres a couple photos of the same setup i'm going for) and figured it would be the strong go-nowhere 'professional' solution. I would think that the rivet nub on the battery side of the plate/holder would likely have the same height as a nut and screw end anyhow and will thus raise the battery height in kind by a little bit so I think I can use either option but would still like to entertain trying to use rivets. There seems to be less likelihood of anything going weird down the line as long as I do it right (loosening nuts after repeated use for example if I use the nut/screw route).

It's going through the bottom aluminum plate and a spring steel battery holder so it won't be going through any plastic. The bottom plate WILL be finished to match whatever color I paint the top shell with so it won't be forgiving as using a bare enclosure.






davent

Rather then buying more hardware and drilling more holes in the enclosure i use heavy duty adhesive backed velcro tape.

One half stuck to the backplate or inside the enclosure and for the battery i cut a battery length piece of bicycle inner tube to slip over the battery. Stick the opposing piece of velcro to the inner tube battery sleeve and your set to go, easy to change out the battery and holds fast.
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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GibsonGM

That's a good one, dave!

The stuff that locks the threads so the nut doesn't easily come loose is Loctite.  I recommend the blue, which will let you remove it later if need be, but holds things securely til then.  Good stuff!
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davent

#6
Double post...
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Phend

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Do you know what you're doing?

GibsonGM

("double post")  I wasn't sure if you were 'offended', Dave, LOL!   The velcro trick is great, and I'll probably borrow it.  In this case, it would be the simplest, 'least fussy' way to secure the battery for sure. 

I do think one should have some Loctite at hand for the odd job.  Along with a pop rivet gun  :icon_cool:  Things you use maybe once every 2 years, but when you need them...you need them!   
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MXR Dist +, TS9/808, Easyvibe, Big Muff Pi, Blues Breaker, Guv'nor.  MOSFace, MOS Boost,  BJT boosts - LPB-2, buffers, Phuncgnosis, FF, Orange Sunshine & others, Bazz Fuss, Tonemender, Little Gem, Orange Squeezer, Ruby Tuby, filters, octaves, trems...

davent

Quote from: GibsonGM on October 19, 2023, 06:39:10 AM("double post")  I wasn't sure if you were 'offended', Dave, LOL!   The velcro trick is great, and I'll probably borrow it.  In this case, it would be the simplest, 'least fussy' way to secure the battery for sure. 

I do think one should have some Loctite at hand for the odd job.  Along with a pop rivet gun  :icon_cool:  Things you use maybe once every 2 years, but when you need them...you need them!   

My reaction was 'how've i screwed up making a post this time' usually just multiple typos but a double post, how'd i pull that one off? I really wasn't starved for attention, i thought i'd messed up posting again... no problem.

I'm using a tablet that i struggle with and what it does display, doesn't display on sites leaves me wanting.

All's well!
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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GibsonGM

I have that problem looking at forums on a cell phone...damn 'apps'.... ha ha
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toneman

What about JBWeld (the grey stuff).
No holes to drill!!!!
Skuff up both surfaces, mix some up, coat both parts, hold together with C-clamp, let dry for 24hrs.
This stuff is so durable, you can thread it!!
Happy building!!!
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