AionFx Refractor - LED is not lighting

[Discorde]

Hello,

after building the kit, here are my observations :

No sound pass through
the led glows briefly and then stop  glowing

The C16 capacitor seems mounted correctly (Plus marking on the plus of the PCB)

EDIT : Testing everything unmounted seems to be ok, except no led glow

here are my IC voltages

IC1

PIN VOLTAGE
1 1.14V
2 1.14V
3 1.97 (NOT DRIFTING)
4 0V
5 2.33V
6 2.29V
7 1.31V
8 9.71V


IC2

PIN VOLTAGE
1 2.40V
2 2.34V
3 2.34V
4 -9.44V
5 2.35V
6 2.34V
7 2.34V
8 17.87V

IC3

PIN VOLTAGE
1 9.71V
2 4.93V
3 0V
4 -4.64V
5 -9.43V
6 4.93V
7 6.32V
8 9.70V

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/IMG_1211.jpg.html
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/IMG_1212.jpg.html
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/IMG_1213.jpg.html

[Discorde]

After dismounting and remounting, the problem went away for the sound at least and I can hear the pedal.

The leads of the pots were not cutted and I think they were shorting the circuit.

That leads me with the led, the led negative is fitted in the circle pad, is that wrong?

Here are my new measurements that seems correct

IC1

PIN VOLTAGE
1 4.87V
2 4.87V
3 3V-4V (DRIFTING )
4 0V
5 4.86V
6 4.86V
7 4.83V
8 9.71V


IC2

PIN VOLTAGE
1 4.88V
2 4.87V
3 4.86V
4 -9.47V
5 4.86V
6 4.86V
7 4.85V
8 17.91V

IC3

PIN VOLTAGE
1 9.74V
2 4.94V
3 0V
4 -4.64V
5 -9.47V
6 4.97V
7 6.36V
8 9.74V

[Kevin Mitchell]

That leads me with the led, the led negative is fitted in the circle pad, is that wrong?

Wouldn't that be messed up if they set up the polarity for square pad = + for everything but the LED  . Are you sure you didn't solder it backwards?
If not you should be good. Though there is a chance the LED is bad.
Measure the voltage of the square pad. If there's anything there I'd assume the LED is no bueno.

Just took a look at the build doc for that one. And may I say, holy cow Aion is killing it. I've read through automotive service manuals there were far less informative.

And of course...
Welcome to the forum!!

[Discorde]

Thanks

As for the led itself, testing it in continuity mode with the multimeter light up the led correctly.

The documentation is a godsent yes !

[Kevin Mitchell]

So either the LED isn't grounded or isn't being supplied any voltage. Sadly I can't point out the resistor as that was left out of the document but you should be able to easily trace the + lead of the LED to that resistor as they'd be on the small bypass board. Verify it's resistance with the meter. If that checks out then try to reflow the solder joints. Could be a cold joint. Or perhaps the resistor is the wrong value and isn't supply enough current to light the LED.

[Discorde]

I am almost sure the resistors did not survived the shorting of the circuit by the jack leads.

I cannot read them using a multimeter.

Nice call, will keep you informed as I change them thx

[bluebunny]

You can't test a resistor while it's in circuit, and you can't destroy it with a multimeter.

[Discorde]

By jack leads I meant this passage from the documentation :

After you've soldered everything, make sure to snip the leads on the I/O jacks as close as possible to
the PCB. There's not a lot of clearance between the bottom of this board and the top of the main PCB
once everything is in place, and you don't want the pins to short against anything on accident

Though I do not understand why I cannot read a resistor while it is on the circuit and no current is flowing and the capacitors are emptied

[antonis]

Though I do not understand why I cannot read a resistor while it is on the circuit and no current is flowing and the capacitors are emptied

You could do it only for a single resistor circuit with one leg "open", at least..
But resistors with one leg "open" are totally useless..

P.S.
You have to make sure there is NO series/parallel combination with other resistors or else you'll measure their equivalent resistance..

[aion]

That leads me with the led, the led negative is fitted in the circle pad, is that wrong?

Wouldn't that be messed up if they set up the polarity for square pad = + for everything but the LED  . Are you sure you didn't solder it backwards?
If not you should be good. Though there is a chance the LED is bad.
Measure the voltage of the square pad. If there's anything there I'd assume the LED is no bueno.

I started out using libraries that had the LEDs "backwards"—diodes should technically be square cathode, my LEDs were square anode—and so a few years ago I changed them all to square cathode. Before long, though, I began getting 1-2 emails per week from people saying the LEDs wouldn't light up, and it was always because they had installed them backwards.

I came to realize that, among the subset of people who don't pay attention to the silkscreen orientation (which has always been accurate, regardless of the pad shape convention), at least ten-to-one they'll instinctively put the long leg in the square pad like a polarized capacitor.

Based on that, I decided to change it back to square anode (meaning that it follows the convention of polarized capacitors with regard to the long leg) and now I get almost zero reports of accidental LED reversals.

All that to say, I've learned there can be situations where "technically correct" is no longer useful. I suppose it's not too different from when the dictionary adds new definitions for words or expressions because people keep using them wrong.

[bluebunny]

Though I do not understand why I cannot read a resistor while it is on the circuit and no current is flowing and the capacitors are emptied

Just to repeat Antonis, but using different words: a resistor in circuit is in general in parallel with the rest of the circuit.  You'd be measuring everything.  So lift a leg if you really need to measure it.  (Lifted leg = dead end = no circuit.)

[Discorde]

Got it thank you for the resistors infos.

Resoldering the 3PDT Footswitch did the trick <3

Many thanks, you inspired me