AionFX Refractor OD Troubleshooting

[LxLuthier]

Hello everybody,
I'm a first time pedal builder with a complete kit from AionFx, the refractor professional overdrive.
A link to the build documentation (schematic included): https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/refractor_kit_documentation.pdf
I just completed the build yesterday and of course things didn't just work right off the bat. I'm a complete novice with this new hobby I'm entering and I probably use too much flux  (SRA rosin paste flux#135), but I have confirmed a couple of things: 

• All components are in their correct place
• All polarized and IC components are oriented correctly
• It is entirely possible that I have a few cold solder joints as this is my first pcb build
• I socketed the germanium diodes in D1 and D2 to allow easy replacement in the future

Symptoms are as follows:

• Led lights up when 3pdt switch is pressed
• Slide switch (4pdt) on true bypass with pedal off I get sound
• Slide switch (4pdt) on true bypass with pedal on I get loud buzzing noise
• Slide switch (4pdt) on buffered bypass with pedal off I get loud buzzing noise
• Slide switch (4pdt) on buffered bypass with pedal on I get loud buzzing noise

The troubleshooting tips included with the build documentation provides some expected voltages on the ICs on page 24 of the linked pdf.
My readings are as follows:
IC1-TL072IP
Pin1: 2.452V
Pin2: 2.462V
Pin3: 2.255V
Pin4: -1mV
Pin5: 7.1V
Pin6: 3.6V
Pin7: 55mV
Pin8: 10mV

IC2-TL072IP
Pin1: 200mV
Pin2: 7.5V
Pin3: 9.06V
Pin4: -2.698V
Pin5: 9.07V
Pin6: 285mV
Pin7: 0.898V
Pin8: 2.108V

IC3-TC1044S
Pin1: 9.4mV
Pin2: -300mV
Pin3: -0.5mV
Pin4: -2.1V
Pin5: -2.5V
Pin6: -0.898V
Pin7: -0.44V
Pin8: 10.9mV
I took these reading as suggested on the build docs with the negative lead of my multimeter in one of the enclosure screw holes and the positive lead on the IC pin.

Please help this major noob and I will repay you with all of the internet mangos! And much appreciation.

Thanks in advance,
Mike, LxLuthier

[MikeA]

Welcome! 

I think there's trouble with the +9 to -9 charge pump IC3, you should have +9V on input pin 8 of IC3 (the 1044 chip that outputs -9V) and you don't.  So you also don't have -9V on output pin 5, and you should.  That would also show up as -9V on pin 4 of IC2, which is also missing.

And the IC pins count like this, with the notch at the top or the dot @ pin 1:
1       8
2       7
3       6
4       5

Might there be a pair of holes on the PCB where you can short pins 1 and 8 of IC3, to allow for using different charge pumps?  If so, you may need to add  a jumper there for a 1044.  If the IC is socketed, remove it and check for continuity on the PCB between pins 1 and 8.  You can temporarily short those pins on the IC if you want to test this idea.

Let us know!

[bluebunny]

Welcome to the forum.



Your power supply is putting out 9V AC.  This will end in tears.  You need 9V DC.

[MikeA]

Your power supply is putting out 9V AC.  This will end in tears.  You need 9V DC.

Good catch! 

[LxLuthier]

Welcome to the forum.



Your power supply is putting out 9V AC.  This will end in tears.  You need 9V DC.

Great catch bluebunny rookie mistake on my part. I have one other wall wart lying around, but I'm scared of damaging the pedal any further. I've tried using a 9v battery but led won't light up with that.

[LxLuthier]

Welcome! 

I think there's trouble with the +9 to -9 charge pump IC3, you should have +9V on input pin 8 of IC3 (the 1044 chip that outputs -9V) and you don't.  So you also don't have -9V on output pin 5, and you should.  That would also show up as -9V on pin 4 of IC2, which is also missing.

And the IC pins count like this, with the notch at the top or the dot @ pin 1:
1       8
2       7
3       6
4       5

Might there be a pair of holes on the PCB where you can short pins 1 and 8 of IC3, to allow for using different charge pumps?  If so, you may need to add  a jumper there for a 1044.  If the IC is socketed, remove it and check for continuity on the PCB between pins 1 and 8.  You can temporarily short those pins on the IC if you want to test this idea.

Let us know!

Hey MikeA,

Good idea, looks like the PCB already accounts for this as I tested for continuity in the socket between pins 1 and 8 and I get a beep.

[bluebunny]

I have one other wall wart lying around, but I'm scared of damaging the pedal any further. I've tried using a 9v battery but led won't light up with that.

This wall wart should be OK, but the damage may have been done already if the LED doesn't light up.    If you're lucky, then diode Z1 has been sacrificed to save the rest of the circuit, although it appears intact.  If so, then replace it (and cross your fingers nothing else got zorched).  Otherwise you'll have to go around testing to find out what may have got nuked.  (Remove the ICs before you power it up again to test.)

[idy]

Sad, but very possible the AC fried all friable components. 1044 for starters. That would be consistent with your numbers. More knowledgeable members may chime in on this. Zener diode vulnerable(?) as are electrolytic caps especially C17 and 18.

If battery is not lighting LED, likely the clip is not attached to DC jack properly.
Need to see continuity between battery positive and pin 1 of 1044, battery negative and ground...

but we need to look at the daughter board- that probably has power protection on it!... Yes, there is a 1n5817 diode there. Funny, the schematic uses a Zener symbol there. That you must look at and test. It also might have prevented damage.

[LxLuthier]

Hey guys,

Led lights up with a 9v battery, just not with a stereo plug in the input. Here are some new voltage readings tested with an almost full 9v battery reading at 8.56V.
also some new symptoms:

• Led lights up when 3pdt switch is pressed
• Slide switch (4pdt) on true bypass with pedal off I get sound
• Slide switch (4pdt) on true bypass with pedal on I get silence
• Slide switch (4pdt) on buffered bypass with pedal off I get weird distorted swiping noise and some bad distortion if I strum the guitar
• Slide switch (4pdt) on buffered bypass with pedal on I get silence

IC1-TL072IP
Pin1: 6.37V
Pin2: 6.35V
Pin3: 4.78V
Pin4: 3.4mV
Pin5: 6.29V
Pin6: 6.48V
Pin7: 7.65V
Pin8: 7.8V

IC2-TL072IP
Pin1: 6.68V
Pin2: 6.23V
Pin3: 6.18V
Pin4: 6.7V
Pin5: 6.15V
Pin6: 6.2V
Pin7: 6.69V
Pin8: 6.69V

IC3-TC1044S
Pin1: 7.65V
Pin2: drifts between 6.9V and 7.61V
Pin3: 1.7mV
Pin4: drifts between 6.57V and 7.24V
Pin5: 6.55V
Pin6: 6.56V
Pin7: 6.09V
Pin8: 7.55V

I just want to add that this community is AMAZING!!! I know the pedal isn't working yet, but you guys are rock stars to me. Thank you for your ongoing help   

Mike, LxLuthier

[idy]

The 1044 has a maximum voltage of 12v. An unregulated "9VAC" supply probably exceeded that. Time to buy a new 1044. And check that diode on the daughter board. It should show low forward voltage (maybe .24v, using the diode test of your meter, power off to the circuit) and open circuit in the other direction.

Also when giving voltages, better to turn 1mv into .001v...I see this a lot lately and its harder to read when looking at a table of voltages. We all want to see 0v on pin 4 of the opamps and pin 3 of the 1044.

[LxLuthier]

Thanks for the guidance IDY, I'll update this post once the new parts come in.

[LxLuthier]

Finally got all my parts in and basically replaced all the electrolytic caps, the zener diode and IC's and the pedal is working great now. I had some issues with a weird noise when using a cheap wall wart I bought from Amazon, but they don't happen when using a 9V battery so I think we're good there. Thank you all for your help with my first pedal build.

[ElectricDruid]

Nice work, and well done for sticking with it. That wasn't the easiest first build in the world, and it's very easy to discouraged by making stupid errors like wrong power supply (and we've all done it...) so well done for not letting it get you down and getting the pedal working.

Enjoy it now it's going!

[DIY Bass]

Just came in late to the party and in the photos in the first post it does look as if one component lead has no solder on it.  It looks as if it is one end of D3, which is part of the power supply network.  Maybe you had some dead components as well due to the AC wall wart, but more solder on that diode would have helped as well