PedalPCB Sunflower Fuzz - Wiring Q

Started by zachlovescoffee, October 15, 2021, 04:38:27 PM

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zachlovescoffee

Quote from: fowl on October 20, 2021, 09:08:18 PM
Quote from: zachlovescoffee on October 20, 2021, 07:58:18 PM
Also, the 3PDT is wired exactly as in the wiring diagram. So if you look at the wiring diagram you can see exactly how it's wired.

Okay, you do seem to have that part correct.  I got confused by the twisted wires in the picture I was looking at, my bad.


Also, I assume you're putting an output cap in the sockets for listening tests...?

Hello! Thanks for the feedback. I'm always open to suggestions if there is a better way to do the stink switch. I'll double check the mini jacks but as far as I can tell looking at the sandwiches, the sleeve is connected to the metal in the center of the jack.

What is an output cap and what is a listening test?

fowl

Looking again at the pedalpcb instructions, you have tip and sleeve reversed on both input and output jacks.  To avoid having to cut new wires, you can just swap them at the jacks themselves.

QuoteWhat is an output cap and what is a listening test?

You said before you were getting no sound, that was your listening test.  There are several issues that are preventing the pedal from making a sound.  First is that you were getting no power to your board, so neither of the transistors were operating.  See the place on your board where you have two individual sockets, and it says 10n between them?  That's where the output cap (C3) goes.  In a normal Fuzz Face it is a 10n cap, but many prefer a larger value there to let more low end through.  I assume that's why you put sockets there, so you can experiment with different values.  But in all your pics, there is nothing installed, and no sound would get through the pedal without a cap there.

zachlovescoffee

Quote from: fowl on October 20, 2021, 10:56:19 PM
Looking again at the pedalpcb instructions, you have tip and sleeve reversed on both input and output jacks.  To avoid having to cut new wires, you can just swap them at the jacks themselves.

QuoteWhat is an output cap and what is a listening test?

You said before you were getting no sound, that was your listening test.  There are several issues that are preventing the pedal from making a sound.  First is that you were getting no power to your board, so neither of the transistors were operating.  See the place on your board where you have two individual sockets, and it says 10n between them?  That's where the output cap (C3) goes.  In a normal Fuzz Face it is a 10n cap, but many prefer a larger value there to let more low end through.  I assume that's why you put sockets there, so you can experiment with different values.  But in all your pics, there is nothing installed, and no sound would get through the pedal without a cap there.


*triple face palm* I'll fix the screen jack and plug in a cap and see what I get out of it. I'm embarrassed! Will let you all know how the tests go!

zachlovescoffee

Quote from: fowl on October 20, 2021, 10:56:19 PM
Looking again at the pedalpcb instructions, you have tip and sleeve reversed on both input and output jacks.  To avoid having to cut new wires, you can just swap them at the jacks themselves.

QuoteWhat is an output cap and what is a listening test?

You said before you were getting no sound, that was your listening test.  There are several issues that are preventing the pedal from making a sound.  First is that you were getting no power to your board, so neither of the transistors were operating.  See the place on your board where you have two individual sockets, and it says 10n between them?  That's where the output cap (C3) goes.  In a normal Fuzz Face it is a 10n cap, but many prefer a larger value there to let more low end through.  I assume that's why you put sockets there, so you can experiment with different values.  But in all your pics, there is nothing installed, and no sound would get through the pedal without a cap there.

If fixed the wiring. Now I'm getting power to the LED and I'm getting signal going through the pedal to the amp whether the pedal is off or on. Unfortunately, I'm getting no fuzz whatsoever.

I've adjusted the internal clean and bias posts to 12 o'lock and the pots outside are also at noon. Nada. The only I'm getting is signal through to the amp but it's quieter than when the pedal is off. No fuzz. Maybe the transistors are crap? That missing cap I replaced with a 10nf 100k? (blue plastic box type) of cap.

Updated pics of the most recent wiring fixes.







fowl

#24
Everything is oriented correctly on your board, so you should be operating, even if the bias isn't set quite optimal yet.  According to the schematic, max fuzziness would occur with the "clean" trimmer fully CCW.  Try it at both extremes to be sure.  If that doesn't help, post the DC voltages of the transistor collector pins, relative to ground.

Maybe I should also mention that we usually use a germanium Fuzz Face with the fuzz control all the way up, and then back off the guitar volume control get get into more overdrive-y type sounds.


zachlovescoffee

Quote from: fowl on October 21, 2021, 03:42:59 PM
Everything is oriented correctly on your board, so you should be operating, even if the bias isn't set quite optimal yet.  According to the schematic, max fuzziness would occur with the "clean" trimmer fully CCW.  Try it at both extremes to be sure.  If that doesn't help, post the DC voltages of the transistor collector pins, relative to ground.

Maybe I should also mention that we usually use a germanium Fuzz Face with the fuzz control all the way up, and then back off the guitar volume control get get into more overdrive-y type sounds.

I think I measured it on the correct pins. It's a germanium diode in a triangle pattern. For Q1 it measured ~ 133vdc and for Q2 it measured ~ 129vdc.

zachlovescoffee

#26
I got it! Had to dime the guitar volume and that worked. Now I'm tweaking clean and bias. Any suggested settings? There is like no low end so I'm going to go up to a 47uf in that one spot if you think it's okay.

Also, I have some Japanese Germanium transistors  that are matched. I may swap them in too. Any thoughts?

fowl

I think you mean 47nF (.047uF)?  You can't hurt anything trying bigger caps, but at some point you will no longer hear any more increase in bottom end.  100nF might be about the limit with this circuit, but I really haven't tried anything more than 47nF myself.

The FF circuit generally likes a higher gain tansistor for Q2, lower for Q1.  So no real benefit to matched transistors, but they might sound good at a certain bias setting.  The "best" set you have might be one of the Russians and one of the Japanese.  It doesn't look like you used sockets on the transistors, so the only risk in experimenting is overheating them (or damaging your PCB) with repeated soldering/desoldering.

zachlovescoffee

The build is complete! I mounted it in a powder coated pedal (125b) in color red. With rose gold knobs and gold switch dress nut. I used the Japanese s181 in Q1 and the soviet nkt275 in q2. Sounds great. Cleans up nice. Lots of definition. Real "Clean" fuzz and usable all through the range. Doesn't get SUPER fuzzy until I dime it out. I love it!


fowl

Quote from: zachlovescoffee on October 25, 2021, 08:23:25 PM
Cleans up nice. Lots of definition. Real "Clean" fuzz and usable all through the range. Doesn't get SUPER fuzzy until I dime it out.[/url]

As it should be!  On to the next one.