Fixing the switch on an Ibanez TS-808 (or anything else from that classic line!)

[nbabmf]

Unless you've got a spare pedal from the same series that just so happens to be dead... it might seem the only choice is to swap out the switch for a large momentary stomp switch to maintain the FET switching or a 3PDT for true bypass.  Not everyone wants their pedal to look different though...

I had a guy come to me today with a dead switch on his 808.  After testing for continuity when actuated (fail), I took that proprietary switch apart.  Lo and behold, there's a tiny little surface mount momentary in there.  I'd never seen a switch so small in my life!  It was so tiny, in fact, that I could even tell if anything was moving down when I pressed it.  I could search Mouser for days to find a suitable replacement, so headed down to Radio Shack on a whime to see if they might have something small enough to squeeze in there... AND THEY DID!

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020763

It was a touch bigger than the original, but I bent the legs a little and glued it into place before I soldered the connections.  It worked like a charm!  I had to remove the spring that normally bridges the gap between the physical button and the momentary, but since the button is spring loaded to return to the up position, it was no problem at all.

I hope this helps someone.  I know when I first went searching for info on the TS-808 switch, I couldn't find anything!

[Paul Marossy]

That's some good info to know if you are into repairing guitar pedals for people. Very surprising that RadioShack had that switch. Every time that I go to RadioShack, they have less and less actual electronic components.

[zombiwoof]

Small Bear sells this one for TS9 type pedals, maybe it would also work:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=34

Al

[Bosman]

Thank you!  I know this is an old post, but I just read it this morning.  I bought a TS-808RI about 7 months ago and it almost immediately started having problems with the switch.  The dealer I bought it from told me my battery was dead and sent me on my way (I put a brand new battery in before taking it to him, and tested it with the ac adapter after leaving the store--definitely not the battery; my business has now gone to another local music store).  After months of casually looking for an easy and inexpensive way to fix it--I'm very much a novice with electronics--I found this post.  I went to Radio Shack earlier this afternoon, picked up a 4-pack of these switches, and within a couple hours (again, I'm quite a novice--someone with even a little more experience could have done it under 30 minutes) my pedal was working again.

This helped immensely.  The repair cost me less than $5.  I was beginning to worry I was going to have to send it off and spend a lot more money.  Thank you.

[Quackzed]

fwiw, i've fixed a few mini momentary switched by squirting wd40 into 'em. works for scratchy oxidized pots, so i figured why not ?!?
worked great! so before you quickdraw that soldering iron, try a little wd40!

[Mustachio]

I know I've heard a few people use WD40 on switches and pots, I personally would stay away from it. WD40 is a dirt magnet and it might clean off the pot or switch at first but it will attract more dust and grime to get back in and clunk up the part again.

Contact cleaner made for electronics is probably the better bet . Blaster CC is good , and the commonly found detoxit .

A buddy of mine used to work at a pawn shop and some guy came in and told him to use WD40 on the pots of his pedals etc. Well all those pedals came to me to fix... And they where a greezy mess to work on , I'm not sure if the WD had anything to do with them all dying at slightly different yet sorta close times from one another. But I will say it was not fun to work on being all dirty and greezy .

I don't know if WD40 is inherently bad for electronics, or just that it tends to muck up with dirt. I'm thinking just the dirt part .

[Quackzed]

true, but the dirt collecting aspect is greatly reduced due to the switches/pots being contained inside enclosures/ cavaties. contact cleaner is a better option i'd guess, same strategy more or less. just figured i'd mention it as an option before replacing parts, which can be a bit daunting for those without previous soldering experience etc...

[analogmike]

I think this is the switch, only 50 cents at Mouser, hope this will help some folks.

Mfr. #: PTS525SM08SMTR2LFS

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK/PTS525SM08SMTR2LFS?qs=fKM5yiF0f3M%2FBdlGpvKPUA%3D%3D

[analogmike]

I got some of the switches, but the dimension of the little button is not right, must be a slightly different part number.