Troubleshooting Help AionFX Penumbra Bass Fuzz

Started by Flying_Squrl, September 15, 2023, 05:37:22 PM

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Flying_Squrl

Hey there, this is my first attempt to build an effects pedal. I got everything soldered together and here are the symptoms of the patient:
1. Bypass works fine
2. Stomp switch pushed, LED lights fine, otherwise I get nothing.

Schematic on page 23 here: https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/penumbra_kit_documentation.pdf

Here are my pin voltage measurements (from L to R on schematic):
IN
RPD resistor: 0V
C1 (no pole): 0, 4.3V downstream
R1: 9V (+ side), 4.3V (transistor side)
R2: 0V (GND side), 4.3V (transistor side)
Q1 (2N5457): B=7.14V, 9V (+ side), 4.3V (downstream)
R3: 7.14V (transistor side), 0.02V (GND side)
XFM1 (42TL019): P=7.14, S=0V
R4: 7.14V (both sides)
C2 (no pole): 7.14V, 0.02 (GND side)
[PICKUP SIMULATOR SWITCH ON]
C3 (no pole): 7.14V, 0.08V (downstream)
[PICKUP SIMULATOR SWITCH OFF]
C3 (no pole): 0V, 0V

[PICKUP SIMULATOR SWITCH ON]
C4 (no pole): 0.12V, 0.12V (GND side)
Q2: B=0.035V, C=9V, E=0.029V
R5: 9V (both sides)
R6: 0.1V then descended to .03 like it was bleeding off??
PINCH POT
R7: 0.007V (both sides)
R8: 9V (both sides)
Q3: B=0.007V, C=9V, E=0.007V
C5: +0.04V, -0.013V
FUZZ POT - GND
C6: +9V, -5V
C7 (no pole): 9V, 5V (downstream)
R9: 5V (both sides)
TONE POT
R10: 5V (both sides)
C8 (no pole): 4.5V, .03V (GND side)
C9 (no pole): 4.5V, 0.06V (downstream)
C10 (no pole): 0.007V (wobbled around then descended), 0.13V (also wobbly)
C11: +4.5V, -0.2V
VOLUME POT
OUT

I removed the C3 and bench tested it. All the pots show expected values given their inputs. All points of 9V voltage entry to the main PCB showed 9V. It tested normal. This really seems like I have multiple issues. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with electronics in aviation, but not this stuff so please assume I might have done something boneheaded.

Thanks!
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PRR

Welcome.

Your excellent readings show an 'impossibility', voltage at one end of a wire but not at the other. Of course in real life stuff happens. Look for loose or dirty joint around here.

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antonis

As Paul pointed out above, Q2 is in cut-off region (no current through C-E junction), probably due to Q3 almost zero voltage (no Q2 Base bias..)
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Flying_Squrl

OK, that makes sense. I'll go back after those points first and see if it works. I was setting aside time today to reflow all the solder joints anyway. Will report back soon.
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Flying_Squrl

Progress Report:
wicked, cleaned, and soldered Q3 again, no change
wicked, cleaned, and soldered Q2 again, no change
re-soldered (just touched with heat again and added a dot of solder if it looked lean) every point on main PCB, no change

Currently attempting to remove Q3 and test it on the bread board, but...I need a break. It's tricky to remove something with three points, eh
  • SUPPORTER

PRR

#5
Crack in PCB trace?

Bright light, magnifier. You can learn a lot by looking. (Yes, I also say the electricity is invisible, but most ways it travels are unbroken metallics.)
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antonis

In case you have handy a pair of alligator clips, jumper VA to Q3 Base via a 56k resistor.. :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Flying_Squrl

Removed Q3 and R5 from the PCB. Continuity check from R5 point to Q2-C is good. Continuity check from Q2-C to Q3-B is open (!!). Transistor Q3 tested good on the bread board, as did the 56K resistor (R5).

I can't see a visual problem with the trace. See the pic and tell me if there is something in your experience obviously wrong with the path marked.



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Flying_Squrl

So, I think I'm ready to request a warranty from the kit supplier, eh?
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FiveseveN

More support from kit vendors would be great, but a quicker fix would be to replace the offending trace with a bodge wire.
Quote from: R.G. on July 31, 2018, 10:34:30 PMDoes the circuit sound better when oriented to magnetic north under a pyramid?

Flying_Squrl

Yes! I can do that for sure. It would also prove out the rest of the unit. I'll still let them know about the problem though so they could check any inventory for problems.
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Flying_Squrl

I got the transistor and resistor installed, then the jumper/bodge (never heard bodge before, that's a fun word) wire. Now I have continuity, but it seems I have jacked up the resistor because it's dropping voltage from 9 to 1.3 across it. Also, the coating cracked and broke partly off, so I need a new one. AND, since this is the first box I've attempted, I have no spare parts. I'll post results once those arrive, but it feels promising because I also saw the dropped voltage amount over on the Base point of Q3.

Thank you so much for the help everyone! In hindsight, the voltage measurements make it look obvious, but it can be really heard to get one's head out of the rosin smoke. I appreciate @PRR, @antonis, and @FiveseveN for the comments and nudges in the right direction so far.
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PRR

#12
> I have jacked up the resistor because it's dropping voltage from 9 to 1.3 across it.

You *expect* Q3 B to be about twice of 0.6V (two base drops) plus a little. So 1.3V is probably right.
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Flying_Squrl

Turns out it was the PCB. After I got the 56K resistor in the mail, I put it all back together with the wire between Q2 and Q3 and it works! It's a really nice fuzz/distortion pedal. It gets crazy with the Pinch control. Thanks again for all the help. I'm tackling a preamp with compression next.
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