Aion Eclipse Help

[ToneRangerAudio]

Hey all,

I'm hoping my Aion can chime in here. A while ago I ordered the newer version of the Eclipse to build. Everything was wired perfectly and went to test it, and nothing. Tried everything to fix it. I came to the conclusion that the footswitch board was dead somehow. So I ordered another full PCB so I could finish this project. This time it worked, but when I had to unsolder and resolder the board to put it in a new enclosure, dead. I didn't overheat it as I'm really mindful of that, but it looks like they can't really handle anything other than one time soldering.

Anyways, I don't want to order another PCB, so I just decided to wire it up like the older version of the Eclipse straight to the footswitch. Everything worked great first try except for the buffer switch. Engaged it sounds perfect, however disengaged I'm getting the full signal, but it's really dark, like the tone knob of my guitar is rolled all the way down. Does anyone know what the cause of this would be in this configuration and how I could possibly fix it?

Appreciate it!

*links for pics down below

[aron]

Read the sticky thread - image upload site.

[ToneRangerAudio]

Got it.

https://www.diyschematics.com/schematics/picture.php?/6499/category/community

https://www.diyschematics.com/schematics/picture.php?/6498/category/community

https://www.diyschematics.com/schematics/picture.php?/6497/category/community

[aron]

Something looks incorrect with the bypass wiring but it's hard to make out. Where did you get that wiring from?

[ToneRangerAudio]

Something looks incorrect with the bypass wiring but it's hard to make out. Where did you get that wiring from?

https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/eclipse_legacy_documentation.pdf

Here.

[aron]

It looks correct. Use your meter to verify that when you are switched out, the IN from the board is really connected to ground (touch IN to GND with meter on continuity or ohms) and that when a cord is connected that the tip to tip has close to zero resistance. Test from tip to ground and make sure there's no resistance.I guess I have seen some bad 3PDT that can cause this, but test your connections.

[duck_arse]

it is polite when requesting assistance to post the build docs, the correct build docs for the version in your hand, so disinterested parties don't then need to wade through ALL the versions at some site, somewhere. because they might get the wrong docs, and then just not bother.



if your green arrowed is 22k, the your red arrowed is not 22k.

[ToneRangerAudio]

it is polite when requesting assistance to post the build docs, the correct build docs for the version in your hand, so disinterested parties don't then need to wade through ALL the versions at some site, somewhere. because they might get the wrong docs, and then just not bother.



if your green arrowed is 22k, the your red arrowed is not 22k.

Replaced this resistor and still doing the same thing sadly :/ Any more ideas?

[duck_arse]

it is difficult to diagnose the bypass wiring when it is not included in the schem. difficult also when all your wires belong black. over to you. engage into the problem mode - unpowered, no signal. then probe and probe and probe with your ohmmeter - not continuity. test from tip in to the switch pins, and to the board to find what it is connecting to. then test from tip out to switch and board, likewise. when in bypass, nothing should be connecting to either tip except the other tip and the switch connections.

draw what you think the switching circuit looks like, then verify it. and I don't mean a mechanical representation of the switch lugs, I mean proper electrical switch symbols.

what value was that bad resistor?