Mounting this submini rotary switch?

[stonerbox]

In need of cost efficient and small footprint rotary switches for some builds. I found C&K's RM-series but how are they supposed to be mounted when they lack both threads and holes for screws? I can't just glue and hope it can withstand the usual user punishment.

https://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Rotary/RM/

[GGBB]

Those appear to be intended for PCB mount applications, not panel mount. (Maybe you know this already?) The PCB would be mounted to the enclosure using appropriately sized standoffs, and the shaft would protrude through the enclosure hole.

[RickL]

If you have access to one, I might be tempted to use a die to try to thread the shaft. Then you could just mount it the normal way. You risk destroying it, but if they're cheap enough it might be worth the try.

[bluelagoon]

I suspect they be very expensive
Just checked, Actually quite reasonably priced, compared to some others

[bluelagoon]

Then there are these by Grayhill, they are same as used in the JHS Clover, most expensive part of the whole pedal!




Grayhill Rotary 2 pole 10 position

[bluelagoon]

Then there are these from Tayda, which look like C&K clone type rotary switches for a fraction of the price.



Tayda Rotary Switches A-6643




I think if you locked these in with all pins soldered to the PCB, you would have something sufficient coming out the box face with a knob on it.
Wont likely be as sturdy as a metal shaft, but might last a week or two, at least, so long as you don't throw it about the room too much.

[GibsonGM]

Depending on space one could do a sub-board that would then be rigged to be epoxied to the enclosure, but it's much more work and not friendly to replacement. Might be ok for a one-off, but probably not for 'commercial' use.  If I had a choice I'd go with the alternatives...

[ElectricDruid]

The shaft diameter of 4.2mm is pretty weird. Good luck finding a knob to fit that.

https://www.ckswitches.com/media/1910/rm.pdf

[mozz]

Just drill out a 1/8" knob. I may have some used grayhill here taken from used mil equipment, will have to check on how many position.

[Ben N]

Then there are these from Tayda, which look like C&K clone type rotary switches for a fraction of the price.



Tayda Rotary Switches A-6643




I think if you locked these in with all pins soldered to the PCB, you would have something sufficient coming out the box face with a knob on it.
Wont likely be as sturdy as a metal shaft, but might last a week or two, at least, so long as you don't throw it about the room too much.

Those look like they might go into a 9-pin tube socket. 

[Ben N]

Tayda also has these that do mount to the panel, although quality looks a little hit or miss - not much about, say, expected life in the datasheet.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/mini-rotary-switch-1-pole-8-position-alpha-rs16211-20mm.html

[ElectricDruid]

Those look like they might go into a 9-pin tube socket. 

That would be the looniest case of "compatibility" I've heard in a good while...

[PRR]

Those look like they might go into a 9-pin tube socket. 

That would be the looniest case of "compatibility" I've heard in a good while...

The pin-grips in a 7 or 9-pin tube socket are an exact fit on pins of a TO-3 transistor. (I guess that means TO-3s use tube pins.)

[stonerbox]

Those appear to be intended for PCB mount applications, not panel mount. (Maybe you know this already?) The PCB would be mounted to the enclosure using appropriately sized standoffs, and the shaft would protrude through the enclosure hole.

Been away on job for a couple of days so I'm sorry for the late reply!

Of course it is pcb mounted, I can't believe how I managed to suppress that option. Nothing for me then, I need durability. This is going to cost me a big wad of cash.

[stonerbox]

Then there are these by Grayhill, they are same as used in the JHS Clover, most expensive part of the whole pedal!




Grayhill Rotary 2 pole 10 position

It's a beautiful black hole we have here. I saw them while browsing a week ago but got scared of the hungry black hole they come with. However, they would probably last two decades.

[bluelagoon]

I think your best option for panel mount with holding nut are those from Tayda as shown above in Ben N's post
they are cheap as chips, they use conventional 6mm spline shaft knobs, and would easy be replaced if they did not hold up well, but if placed in a preferred position in the box away from foot stomp damage, no reason they couldn't last well.