Glassblower III JFET Switching issue

Started by FootSolder, January 11, 2024, 06:13:31 PM

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FootSolder

I built a Vero version of the Glassblower MkIII using the attached Sabrotone verified layout. My first time using JFET switching and I can't get it to work. I only had a 3PDT foot switch, so used one column and put the -ve LED lead on a spare lug, otherwise stuck to the wiring. The switch illuminates the LED but the pedal won't go into bypass, it is always on regardless of switch status. I'm sure it is a dumb newbie error but driving me nuts as the pedal sounds great otherwise! Any suggestions appreciated :)




bluebunny

You don't seem to have anything connected to the middle footswitch column that you're using for the switching.  Link the top and bottom lugs to their left-hand neighbours.
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Elijah-Baley

Here's the schematic.


The switching method is new even for me, but looking at the layout and at the schematic, I see the footswitch is just an SPDT, a column of the 3PDT is enough.
Your green wire coming from R12 should go at the central lug of the footswitch, just like the negative side of the status LED (D3).

Try it and let us to know! :)
«There is something even higher than the justice which you have been filled with. There is a human impulse known as mercy, a human act known as forgiveness.»
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FootSolder

Quote from: bluebunny on January 12, 2024, 04:10:20 AMYou don't seem to have anything connected to the middle footswitch column that you're using for the switching.  Link the top and bottom lugs to their left-hand neighbours.
Thanks for the replies! My understanding is that the rows are connected internally, the three center lugs being the common so it doesn't affect the switch when I jumper them.

Quote from: Elijah-Baley on January 12, 2024, 04:14:12 AMThe switching method is new even for me, but looking at the layout and at the schematic, I see the footswitch is just an SPDT, a column of the 3PDT is enough.
Your green wire coming from R12 should go at the central lug of the footswitch, just like the negative side of the status LED (D3).

Try it and let us to know! :)
Thanks but I'm confused - is that not what I have in my photo? I think this the schematic for the mark III which differs from the Mark II you posted (D1, D2 and R3 are optional and not included on Vero layout), but can't say it makes it clearer...


bluebunny

All nine lugs of the footswitch are independent of each other: there are no internal connections.  Otherwise you'd just have an oversized SPDT switch.
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duck_arse

#6
FootSolder - your posted circuit doesn't agree with the layout for values. C8 can't be 10uF as shown on the vero, it is FAR too big. it should be 10nF oe 100nF. grrrrrr no circuit with vero sites. you have 1M as per the vero on the gate of the fet R14, but your shown circuit shows 100k.

and your bypass switch needs more wires. see the note under the vero layout Stomp SW1 and Stomp SW3
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FootSolder

Thanks for the suggestions, it's solved! I connected the two middle lugs (thanks for the clarification from Bluebunny) and the boost would swell in after 5 seconds, and gradually fade out after the switch was pressed to bypass. Weird. So I followed duck_arse's suggestion and dropped C8 from 10u to 10n and it now bypasses like a champ! Grateful to you all :) Think I might stick to a 3PDT true bypass in future...

duck_arse

Quote from: FootSolder on January 11, 2024, 06:13:31 PMI built a Vero version of the Glassblower MkIII using the attached Sabrotone verified layout.

you now have un-verified that build. in as much as it doesn't work right as shown in that layout with those values, but if there is no quoted circuit diagram included, it remains open slather. either way, you are behooved to bring the error to the layouters site's attention.
" I will say no more "