Abductor II finished working sort of..... help. FIXED!!! by Stallik

[Colman]

Ok ,all done chips and transistors installed ,ai get bypass and signal ,no his or hum, volume pot cuts off at 75% travel before that all good past 75% it goes silent (change pots?)LFO led pulses but it'd doesn't speed up  its a steady pulse.I'm guessing to many knobs to get it to the basic state, getting confused and anxious, but hey no strange noises maybe something silly.
another thing when I strum a chord sounds like there's no effect and then a second later it comes-on like there's a delay before it starts .Any Ideas?
Aharon

[Colman]

LFO LED changes speed with duh speed knob(hey on some of those knobs I have only two wires connected as per some comment on the other thread.)OK I put all knobs to zero and Im bringing everything up slowly, still no
weird noises,all seems to work but out of whack not like rob's video.Im testing unboxed.
Aharon


?

[stallik]

when I strum a chord sounds like there's no effect and then a second later it comes-on like there's a delay before it starts .Any Ideas?

Er.. it's a delay pedal. Depending on the delay time setting, you should hear no effect, then the delayed repeat. Pot 1 gives the basic delay level, pots 2-4 add intervals to that repeat. Time should alter the overal delay time, feedback the number of repeats (including the extra intervals from pots 2-3). The modulation controls work backwards on mine (Robs recommendation) the weird noises happen at 0 rather than 10 on one of the knobs and are the result of a reasonable amount of feedback

[Colman]

Thanks stallik,Fixed the vol pot cutting out just replaced it with another one.
For now all seems to work I get more of a wobbly effect than a delay,I get repeats  fine I have to diddle with the feedback pot a bit and see, still no noises except when I engage the top switch, crackling and all kinds of weird stuff like them is going to blowup.LOF LED doing its thing, bypass too.
So main problem now is extra time sw,works on normal tho.
So Im going to turn down all levels except the #1 and go from there.
Shoot I almost got it I can taste it.Maybe I blew one of the  pt chips cause the first time I turned it on without the 78L05.
Thanks again Stallik.
Aharon

[Colman]

I seem to get only one repeat, maybe the PT2399s are toast at least some of them.and that sw on top makes awful noises when engaged. What a shame.

[stallik]

Post some pictures of your final build (both sides)

[Colman]

By the way I'm only getting slapback echo.
















Aharon


PS: I don't think my delay levels are doing anything ,these PT2399 chips are at least 15 years old I need new ones  I suspect that's the problem unless I have a blob of solder somewhere ,but I checked.

[Colman]

FWIW,regulator output 5.5v,PT2399s pin1 5.5v all of them,TLO72 pin8 8.10v both.
Aharon

[stallik]

Check the wiring of the B2M time pot

[Colman]

Stallik you are certified genius,after your suggestion I checked the 2M pot and one of the leads was glued not soldered, cold solder joint,I pulled on it and it came off like a rotten grape,re-did that changed the top sw just in case and now it works.(only on one setting for now, sw up) on the sw down acts weird.
I'm still going to buy new PT2399s and replace them cause I have two  pairs of different chips These are finicky, no major noise.
woo hoo just in time cause the pcb connections where starting to get frayed checked those and now I'm going to carefully box it.
Thanks man I owe you.
  Aharon PS:where is that award button?

[stallik]

Glad you've got it working (mostly)

The switch adds a 2M2 resistor (R10 next to the switch) in series with the pot giving you longer delay times. Should be a SPDT. Worth checking the resistor if you've already changed the switch.

[Colman]

Will do that before boxing.
Thanks again Stallik.
Aharon


Resistor measures 2.217M

[Colman]

Im ordering  4 fresh PT2399, and 0.01 wimas to exchange for those ceramics I put in there. There's something funky with those PTs I have for one they are different 2  are large white logo y 2 are all black logo barely visible, and those 0.01 ceramics  surely are bad.
main thing is that it works 75% ,for such a large complicated build (at least for me).
Im glad that I had help debugging from Stallik cause I don't know how to debug for crap,partly because I very seldom times built something that did not work from the get go.Even my Sans amp gt2 worked first time.
As an example my latest builds were  Expandora (worked), Klon (worked) Orange squeezer(worked) and  a dynacomp/Ross(didn't work) and stashed it in a cardboard box with all the failures (not many).
The other day I got it out and took a look at it and saw what was the problem right away: solder blob on the output shorting against ground, now working fine.But those are relatively easy builds the Abductor is complex and not as easy for me to follow signal path.Also Im older and get tired easy. 

[Colman]

Not the prettiest but she works.......